Sotirio Bulgari Watch unveiled for Bvlgari 125th anniversary

Bvlgari is 125 years old, founded in 1884 in Rome. In celebration of this milestone, Bvlgari has released 125 limited edition watches honoring the brand's founder Sotirio Bulgari. Bvlgari Time S.A. is Bvlgari Swiss subsidiary dedicated to the Brand's Watch production.


The new limited edition Sotirio Bulgari Watch is available in either pink, yellow or white gold. The highly precise BVL 250 automatic mechanical movement is decorated with numerous polishes and finishes, and careful engravings on the gold rotor. The movement is approximately 3.73 mm thick and placed in a 42mm case. The rear of the case opens so that the stunning view of the decorated movement is visible. The front and the back of the watch is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.


The partially skeletonized aregente dial is a wonderful array of exquisite shapes. The hour markers are carefully hand applied. The gold hands are faceted adding to the splendour of the dial. Bvlgari timepiece is a exciting blend of long standing tradition and cutting edge design, bridging the past, present and future.

Urwerk latest pet, the Tarantula Urwerk UR103T

On numerous occasions I have blogged about Urwerk. Complete out of the box thinkers, and I like that. I like that very much. The latest creation is a mesmerizing time display inspired by the Tarantuala. Changes have been made in this new black on black wristwatch. The titanium cross has been replaced by intrinsically new design crafted in ARCAP - a stable copper/nickel alloy. The hour satellites, a trademark of Urwerk, are cocooned within the ARCAP. This ensures the numbers on the hour satellites can only be viewed to display the current hour while passing the arc of minutes. Each satellite hidden from view is rotating simultaneously, preparing for their turn to display the time. The satellites performing a four-beat 480º rotation. As each satellite bears four hour markers, the satellite will turn 120º four times, from the time it leaves the arc until it returns to display the precise hour.

This configuration and movement is a total redesign of the previous Urwerk models making this timepiece a much coveted collectors item. Urwerk UR301T time display is three times the weight of a regular hands on a dial and this intricate precision was required in manufacturing the tiny components, as well as in the assembling, balancing and regulating the timepiece to achieve the precision required to attain the standard required to be deemed a Chronometer. A label only awarded by the C.O.S.C.

The four satellites are crafted in aluminium and mounted on their individual Geneva cross. The actual mechanism is suspended from the central orbital structure which is molded ARCAP 40, a cutting edge material that is light, non magnetic and corrosion resistant.
The minds behind the magic are Urwerk's watchmaker Felix Baumgartner and chief designer Martin Frei whose visions become reality, and their dedicated team.

You can own the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon

Back in December I blogged about the Sky Moon Tourbillon,

"The rarest complications integrated in a single timepiece" (Click on the link for detailed information about this remarkable watch)

Now it can be yours ,for a price, of course. Antiquorum, the worlds leading auction house which specializes in luxury timepieces, has the Patek Phillipe Platinum Sky Moon Tourbillon ,made in 2005,up for Auction. The auction will take place in New York, March 4 & 5th. The going price is between$1,000,000 - $1,300,000. If you are wondering about the price ,read the above link to my December blog. To say this watch is a timepiece suggest the watch merely tracks the time. The Tourbillon in the title suggests a beating heart, and the Sky Moon suggests endless possibilities. The Platinum Skymoon Tourbillon Ref. 5002P is only one of the two Sky Moon Tourbillon watches made each year by Patek Phillipe, one in platinum and the other in rose gold. It the clever culmination of 686 parts, some so small, a microscope is required to view their meticulous perfection.

This auction is satiated with deeply historical timepieces such as the "Kennedy Onassis Watch" The very watch worn by JFK and later gifted to Onassis. The timepiece is a Nastrix, 57 jewels circa 1960, engraved on the case back "To John F. Kennedy From the Evangilines 1963" In addition, the word "Waterproof" is engraved on the case back. A term no longer used as no watch can be absolutely waterproof no matter how many gaskets.The term "Water Resistance" is the more acceptable term in the Horological world of today. On the auctioneers block sold somewhere in the range of $150,000 to $250,000. Gandi's pocket watch is also up for auction, a Zenith alarm open face pocket watch, made 1910-1915. Another interesting watch is "The Godfather Watch", a pretty beat up Patek Phillipe yellow gold wristwatch with an integrated bracelet. The watch spent time on the wrist of Giuseppe Bonnano. The "godfather" of the Bonanno crime family.

Antiquorum has just recently celebrated its 30th anniversary, and has solidified its position in the auction world by auctioning off some of the most sought after collectors timepieces and obtaining the highest price. Antiquorum boasts the highest number of watches sold over a million SFr. Out of 67 watches above this price range by major auction houses, 44 have been sold exclusively by Antiquorum. Antiquorum claimed the all-time world record for a wristwatch at auction when it sold a Patek Phillipe ,unique white gold Calibre 89, at its 2004, 30th anniversary April Auction in Geneva.

Antiquorum is renowed for its thematic auctions: auctions devoted to a single subject. In 1989, Antiquorum held an auction titled "The Art of Patek Phillipe" during Patek Phillipe's 150th anniversary. In 2005 during its thematic auction titled "The Quarter Millenium of Vacheron Constantin" it collected a astounding $15,110,000. In April 2007, the Omegamania Auction collected $5,540,000. - three times the auction estimate.

It will be interesting to see the final price collected for the Patek Phillipe Sky Moon Tourbillon.

Nickel named Allergen of 2008

You may wonder why that watch you purchased leaves you with bright red itchy welts around your wrist, the answer may lie in the Nickel content of your watch case and band. More common ,but not exclusively, found in cheap watches, Nickel is used as it is inexpensive durable and lustrous. Gold (yellow & white), silver, sterling silver, silver plate, palladium, chrome and cobalt often contain nickel.


What is Nickel?

Nickel is a transition metal naturally found in the earth's crust. It is a chemical element. Its chemical symbol is Ni and Atomic Number 28. It is located between cobalt and copper on the periodic table. Its raw appearance is lustrous, metallic and silvery with a gold tinge which takes a high polish. It is a 4.00 on the Mohs Scale of Hardness. Primary Nickel is obtained from mining its ore and from nickel matte. Large production sites include Sudbury Region in Canada which produces 30% of all Nickel, and in many locations in Russia. Nickel is also found in large quantities in nickel-iron meteorites as well as close to the earths core. Closer to the crust it is not as abundant ranking only 24th in order of abundance. Nickel is corrosion resistant, thus used in alloys, as plating in a large variety of applications including watches and jewelry as well as our Nickel coin which is comprised of 75% copper and 25% nickel.

Nickel is not a new transition metal. It has been in use since 3500 B.C. in the form of an alloy. It was only in 1751 that Axel Fredrik Cronstedt, a Swedish chemist, who at first mistook this Nickel's ore for a copper mineral, classified Nickel as a chemical element. In 1890, Nickel was introduced as cast metal and steel alloys in order to improve its mechanical attributes. Over 100 years ago, stainless steel was invented. 40% to 50% of all Nickel produced goes into stainless steel.

Nickel in Watches

In watches, Nickel is primarily used in stainless steel in the production of water-resistant cases. In addition "nickel silver"an alloy of nickel, copper and zinc has been in use for the past 150 years in the production of plates and bridges in high end timepieces replacing the use of brass. Antique cheap watches used nickel silver to replace real silver before the introduction of stainless steel. Nickel is used to electroplate brass watch parts such as bridges and plates to prevent oxidation. Just a thin layer of Nickel can lend a metallic sheen to the watch components. Nickel is also used in the crafting of pendulum rods and balance springs. Invar, a ferronickel comprising of 36% nickel with an ultra low coefficient of expansion, as well as Elinavar is a variation of Invar, coined by Charles-Edouard Guillaume (1861-1938) , a Swiss who worked for the International Bureau of Weights and Measures, whose thermo-elastic coefficient is zero between -60º and + 70º and in 1920 received a Nobel Prize in physics for discovering anomalies in nickel-steel alloys. Invar and Elinavar is used in precision pendulum rods, watch balance springs, geodetic baselines, length standards, thermostats and other devices where high precision is vital. Guillaume's total compensating balance spring for high precision watches and chronometers was perfected by incorporating the Elinvar hair spring in the movement of the luxury timepiece.

Allergies and Nickel

An allergy is a disorder of the immune system. Allergic reactions occur as a result of allergens which in our case is Nickel. The allergic reactions occur at varying degrees of seriousness some life threatening others a minor irritation. Statistically 10% of healthy people are prone to one kind of allergy or another. There is a vast amount of information about different levels of allergy's, allergens, manifestations of allergies and so on. For the purposes of this article we need not delve into great depth, but rather skim the surface and utilize the relevant information in regard to nickel as an allergen.
A Nickel Allergy is a very common form of Allergic Contact Dermatitis (ACD). A rash develops after direct contact with nickel and may have the following characteristics:
Rash or bumps on skin, Itching which can be severe, redness or changes in skin color, Dry patches of skin that can resemble a burn, blisters and draining fluid in sever cases, Sweating aggravates condition. (Source: MayoClinic.com)
redness, itching, hives and/or cracks.

• An individual must be in direct contact with a bracelet, band or watch case containing Nickel creating an allergic reaction.
• Nickel liberates easily from the alloy and onto the skin in the form of cations, or positively charged particles creating an allergic reaction.
• The positive ions must be transferred via a fluid which serves as an electrolyte. This fluid is quite often sweat, but may also be water from the sea or swimming pool.

The stainless steel used in manufacturing the watch cases releases varying amounts of nickel from the alloy depending on the nature of the alloy and the proportions of the individual components. Stainless Steel used for medical purposes releases virtually no nickel; however, cheap costume jewelry especially custom-made jewelry from artists like those found in flea markets have a high content of nickel. Nickel content is easily tested with dimethylglyxime (DMG) method. A simple spot test using the DMG solution can determine if the watch case, band or jewelry contains nickel. Young adults and teens, particularly girls aged 10-15 are susceptible to nickel allergies in jewelry for ear or other piercings as cheap jewelry targeted at that age group ,for some reason contain high nickel content (for further information see The San Francisco earring study, published online in the Journal of the American academy of Dermatology by Dermatologist Howard I.Maibach, MD, FAAD, professor of Dermatology at the University of California, San Francisco.) Belt buckles also contain Nickel causing reactions in that contact area.
In regard to the liberation of nickel ions is the condition of the metal surface in contact with the skin. Corroded case backs become rough or porous and attract the electrolyte fluid, most often perspiration, and become active zones for producing the allergenic cations which in turn generates higher concentrations of metal ions as the metal corrodes. Bi color watches made of alternating bands of gold and steel can cause reactions in people with sensitive skin. Gold and stainless steel have differing electric potentials which accelerates the transfer of ions in the sweat. This increase in galvanic corrosion leads to a greater risk of allergy. An increase in the corrosion rate causes an increase in the risk of an allergic reaction. Corrosion often occurs at the at the joint of two different metals are soldered together.The small cavity created as a result of the corrosion becomes an ideal area for more corrosion.
Solutions to the Nickel Allergy
a) Avoidance. An excellent alternative for those who are extremely allergic to Nickel.

• One must look for jewelry and wristwatches labeled "nickel-free" or "hypoallergenic"
• Avoid gold plated watches which have been worn over a long period of time. With time, the thin layer of gold wears off exposing the skin to the underlying metal containing high nickel levels.
• Wear only titanium, platinum, rose gold (which has a high percentage of copper rather than nickel), and PVD or any synthetic materials like those found in Swatch watches. White gold often contains nickel exceeding the acceptable levels of nickel sensitivity.
• Immediately discontinue wearing the wristwatch or other jewelry if any itching or redness occurs at the contact site.
• If you know you have been previously diagnosed with a nickel allergy you may use a 1% hydro cortisone cream or ointment which can be purchased over-the-counter, or home remedies which have been prescribed by your doctor in the past to treat nickel-induced dermatitis.
• If symptoms worsen or do not improve within three to five days after avoiding contact with the timepiece or jewelry consult a dermatologist. (Source: American Academy of Dermatology)
• If you are not sure what the rash could be, consult your doctor.
• Seek emergency care if the rash develops blisters or drains fluid (Source: mayoclinic.com)

b) Watch wearing precautions for people who have mild nickel sensitivity include:

• One should remove ones watch before bedtime thereby lowering the amount of contact between skin and metal.
• Regularly wipe the watch case and bracelet with a clean, dry cloth. A slightly damp cloth can be used if the watch is water resistant to eliminate the accumulation of nickle ions which can irritate the skin.
• After heavy perspiration, any watch model no matter the nickel content should be removed from the wrist and carefully washed. With this practice the risk of a nickel allergy or a nickel sensitivity can be greatly reduced.

Currently there are no Federal Standards in regard to the definition of the term "hypoallergenic" or nickel free. Nickel free can mean only the top plating is nickel free but the base metal may contain nickel. Nickel allergies has raised concerns in the European community, which has begun the drafting of a legislation controlling the use of nickel especially in products that come in direct contact with the skin. On June 27, 1989, Denmark was the first to sign such a legislation which prohibits the import and production of products that liberate quantities of nickel higher than 0.5 micrograms/cm2 over a period of one week. In the early 1990's the European Union Nickel Directive was passed in an effort to decrease the widespread Nickel exposure in consumer and occupational products in Europe. This directive seems to be working and the Nickel products containing a high Nickel content has been reduced. No such regulation exists in the United States leaving millions of of people at risk for dermatitis Many high end watch making companies are monitoring the levels of nickel in their products, using materials such as titanium and PVD. Newly imposed regulations will only enhance the sale of wristwatches as customers will rest assured that the use of nickel has been reduced and monitored.
In the interim ,if you know you are allergic to Nickel, do research on the watch you wish to buy. Many of the watch brand websites have allergy information posted which can be quite helpful.

The Distinct Daniel Roth Watch.

When one thinks of Daniel Roth, an very definite watch case shape comes to mind. The very watch shape case that Daniel Roth had in mind when he established the company in 1989. Although, the company was relatively new it was charged with extreme creativity and Daniel Roth's passion for perfection and the Tourbillon. In a 2004 interview with The Purists, Daniel Roth said,
" I feel tourbillons are alive; they give a watch joy and soul."

Today the company Daniel Roth is churning out superb complications encased in Daniel Roth's original form.
Daniel Roth Perpetual Calendar Moonphase Mens' Watch Platinum Grey Dial on Black Leather Strap

Daniel Roth Premier Retrograde Mens' Watch Automatic Stainless Steel Blue Dial Diamond Bezel

In Daniel Roth's Le Sentier workshops, master watchmakers added to its Masters Grandes Complication line with its Perpetual Calender Moonphase Timepiece. Two superimposed dial sections display the moonphase readout. The date, leap years, month and week are displayed on the lower dial. Daniel Roth Premier Retrograde Mens' Watch Automatic Stainless Steel Blue Dial Diamond Bezel
Daniel Roth's tireless creativity is evident in this striking retrograde timepiece. The date display is in a sub dial at the 6 'o'clock position. The retrograde hour markers are extremely unique. The 12 o'clock is in its traditional position and as the numbers on either side of the 12 extend outwards, tradition is replaced by intriguing design, so much so the hour display are book-ended by two 6 'o'clocks. In every Daniel Roth's timepiece there is always a little surprise. Daniel Roth timepieces are considered highly prestigious amongst watch collectors.

Daniel Roth, the company still bares the name, although Daniel Roth in person is no longer affiliated with the Company. Daniel Roth SA was sold to the Bvlgari Group in 2000, the same year that it acquired Gerald Genta SA. The company continues to amaze watch enthusiasts with its complicated marvels.

FHH and FHS anti-counterfeiting campaign

"FAKE WATCHES ARE FOR FAKE PEOPLE!" is the new powerful slogan in an anti-counterfeiting campaign by The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FH) and the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FHS). This campaign was unveiled at the Salon International de la Haute 2009. The add campaign is to inform the public of the damaging effects the counterfeiting watch business has on the genuine watch industry.
Fake online watch sales have skyrocketed and has taken a terrible toll on the watch industry. "Replica" is the term of choice for these companies; however, a fake is a fake no matter how you coin the phrase. Calculations determined by the Customs seizure of counterfeit and piracy amount to a staggering $200 billion to $360 billion a year. Luxury Swiss watches are as vulnerable to counterfeiting as handbags, perfume and clothing. About 40 million fake Swiss wristwatches are produced every year compared to the exports of just under 26 million authentic Swiss watches during 2007.

However the genuine Swiss Brands know that to target the manufacturers of fake watches will be useless and so they target the customers. If there is no customer demand for fake watches then the manufacturing of fake watches would seize.
The slogan "Fake Watches are for Fake People" is extremely effective as it questions ones self-image. No one wants to be known as fake and if wearing a fake watch means one is fake, well then one must stop wearing the fake watch.

Don't try give your loved one a fake watch this Valentines Day. You don't want your loved one to think your relationship is a fake. Giving a fake watch for Valentines Day is like placing a cubic zirconia in a wedding ring. Ouch! So steer away from fakes and let your beloved know your love is true with a real 100% genuine luxury watch.  Be real this Valentines Day!

Girard-Perregaux Heritage Vintage 1945

Girard-Perregaux unveils its Heritage Vintage 1945 timepiece against the image of the Chrysler Building. An icon of Art Deco. This watch has been designed according to the principles of Art Deco. Click here to discover Art Derco's influence on watches.

Girard-Perregaux has added to its popular 1945 collection. At 32mm x 32mm this watch seems somewhat smaller among today's larger models; however, its perfect balance and gentle colors exude a sense of harmony. On the four corners of the watch case are small ledges called godrons. The godrons warp around the corners adding to the art deco geometric aspect of the watch. Although the case is small its movement is intensely accurate: The Mechanical with automatic winding GP3300. With a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, 28 jewels and 46 hours minimum power reserve, the movement can be viewed via a sapphire crystal case back.
The dial is rich in design, materials and color. The pink gold dauphine hands indicate to applied pink gold hour markers. The date is between the 1 and 2 o'clock and the subsidiary seconds dial is centered above the 9'o clock. The watch exudes an expression of distinction and worth.