Can Investing in a Luxury Watch be Compared to Investing in a Luxury Car? Please Comment!

Patek Phillipe Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 5002

Upon commenting on a fellow blogger's post about the HYT HI hydro mechanical , I -  questioning the longevity and depreciation of a watch containing fluid as part of the mechanism.

My Comment:

What about the longevity of the timepiece? Does the liquid make the watch more vulnerable to environmental changes? How volatile is the liquid in the tube?
I love this watch, but I have been wondering this for a long time, especially if someone is going to save up to buy this watch.  Does the liquid actually increase its worth on purchase, but depreciate  more rapidly as time goes by?

  
Reply to my  Comment:  
Buying a new watch as an investment is like buying a new car as an investment: retarded.



 I have a friend who paid for the weddings of his children with money received from selling three of his watches.  Watches he  purchased thirty years ago. The three watches in question were Rolexes - known for their excellent resale value - and superb movement with proven longevity.  He sold them in a flash for for a quite a bit of cash.
Excellent resale values also apply to watch manufacturers like Piaget, Harry Winston,  Patek Phillipe - who actually pushes the concept of longevity with its clever advertising slogan -"You never actually own a Patek Philippe; you merely take care of it for the next generation."- Vacheron Constantin and the new players like Richard Mille, Parmigiani Fleurier,  Greubel Forsey and a host of others.
The scenario may have been quite different if, thirty years ago,  he had invested in a luxury car  and then tried to sell it in the same condition he had bought it. The car would have cost him a fortune in up keep.  In addition the market for a vintage luxury car is much smaller than a watch.

 When one purchases a watch from say $2,000 upwards - and watches nowadays happily gallop into the million dollar range - does one purchase the watch like one would a fancy car - just for the ride - or does one purchase the watch as an investment, as one would purchase a Rembrandt or Picasso painting?
Is the investment of a car the same type of an investment as a watch? or Is the purchase  of specifically the HYT H1 hydro mechanical timepiece like the purchase of a sports car? Do some watch companies like Tag Heuer, Breitling, Corum and Omega evoke the automotive desire to purchase a watch,  whereas others like Patek Phillipe push the "painting" perspective?

Of course I am not referring to the timepieces which are purchased predominantly to keep time - that idea faded when quartz erupted on stage and I am not referring to the Honda's and Mazdas or Kias for that matter which are purchased or leased to ferry family members or haul home groceries from Walmart.  I am talking luxury cars and luxury watches, which are purchased without necessity, for  investments, gifts (emotional investment) or purely hedonistic motives.

Please feel free to comment - I eagerly await response to the Question...

CAN INVESTING IN A LUXURY WATCH BE COMPARED TO INVESTING IN A LUXURY CAR? 

Only Watch Auction Raises a Whopping 6.2 Million Dollars

Its Official - the Only Watch Auction, held on September 23rd, 2011 brought in 6.2 Million Dollars (4.5 Million Euros) to raise funds for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. 

The highest bid went to the the Patek Phillipe Reference 3939A, which sold for 1.4 Million euros (almost 3 times Antiquorium asking Price.) The timepiece's minute repeater tourbillon encased in steel and sporting an enamel dial is the epitome of Patek Phillipe unparalleled craftsmanship.  The Patek Phillipe minute repeater tourbillon powered by a mechanical manual wind movement Caliber R TO 27 PS and COSC featuring two gong chimes activated by a discrete slide piece was up till now only available in platinum and gold making this one of a kind steel version quite unique and desirable.

The De Witt No. 3 – X-WatchConcept watch featuring 535 components  was another big sale bringing fetching $558,381 or 410,000 euro.  This is the 3rd of De Witts experimentation and 3rd in-house movement (Calibre DW 4806)with reversible watches - a concept first inspired by a concrete mixer! The unique addition to this latest De Witt creation was the addition of an X shaped "bonnet"  partially obscuring the watch face and sparking ones curiosity as to what breathtaking  mechanism  lies beneath.  Push pieces situated at the top and bottom of the watch case activate the "bonnet" which smoothly opens with measured speed like the sliding doors of a space ship and  exposes the watch face enabling the rotation of Titanium Grade 5 -used mostly in Aerospace, Medical, Marine, and Chemical Processing and is stronger than pure titanium and is distinctive for its combination of strength and corrosion resistance, (Grades 1-4).  Of course the "bonnet" can be shut again.  Although the "bonnet" is partially concealing the dial, the dial sporting a bi-retrograde hours and minutes on either side of the "bonnet" and a toubillon at the lower part of the "X" remains perfectly visible. Another scintillating aspect to the watch is the fact that it is a Chronograph with a patented Automatic Sequential Winding (A.S.W.) device activated by a peripheral oscillating rotor.


Other sales included a Van Cleef & Arpels, Poetic Complication “From the Earth to the Moon,” No. 1/1 which sold for 215,000 euros ($292,673).

The Auction was highly successful as Luis Garcia, directeur dr Recherche at the CNRS said, “Thanks to Only Watch, we are going to be able to finance ICE (a program that was started in 2008),” This program brings together 15 leading teams worldwide who work on therapeutic strategies on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, in particular exon skipping, gene and cell therapies.”

Why Invest in a Patek Phillipe Luxury Watch?

Patek Phillipe Watches are highly coveted by collectors and bring in the most money at Auction Houses. As to the exceptional craftsmanship and extreme longevity, one only has to glance at the results of this years Sotheby's Geneva Sale of Important Watches where an extremely rare ,circa 1960, Patek Phillipe Chronograph sold for $815,637. No one can deny the investment attributes of this timepiece.

The more complications incorporated in a single timepiece will have exponential effects on the resale value of the timepiece. This particular timepiece has
a Perpetual Calander, which is one of the most difficult complications to master; requires the most components and is the most time consuming to craft.
The perpetual calender complication is not as eye catching as a tourbillon or as playful as a sonnerie or as insistent as a minute repeater, but it is a master of mechanical manipulation. And the master of mechanical manipulation is undoubtedly Patek Phillipe since 1839.

A Perpetual Calender provides the date, day and month ,while automatically making allowances for the different lengths of months, as well as accounting for leap years. A majority of the Perpetual Calender mechanisms utilize a differential gear mechanism from the hour wheel and this mechanism can comprise of several hundred gears, levers, and other parts. Thus you will notice that the parts listed on a Perpetual Calender Watch is substantially higher than on a regular watch or on watches with other complications.

A Chronograph Complication is currently in hot demand making a Chronograph Watch more desirable than a watch without a chronograph function. The Chronograph watch especially in the world of sports. The 1960's Patek Phillipe is a chronograph making it all the more desirable to collectors.

A Patek Phillipe Luxury Watch holds its value, as it is a known brand, with top sales at auctions, which proves Patek Phillipe has a high resale value. In addition, a Patek Phillipe mechanical luxury watch is timeless and does not bow and scrape to the constraints of technology.

In 2004, a Patek Phillipe Calibre 89 sold at a Sotheby's Geneva Auction for over 6.6 million Swiss francs. Only four Patek Phillipe Calibre 89 watches were produced to mark Pateck Phillipe's 150th anniversary. Crafted in 1989, in 18k gold this 2.4 lb pocket watch contains a total number of 1728 parts and 24 hands. Complications include: Day of the month, Day of the week, 12-hour recorder, Hour of second time zone,moon phase display, winding crown position indicator;century, decade and year displays (I suppose Patek Phillipe expects this watch to last quite a long time), Leap year indicator,Power reserve, month, thermometer,Date of Easter, Time of Sunrise, Equation of Time, Star Chart, Sun Hand, Time of Sunset and split second hand.

In 2002, Patek Phillipe crafted the most complicated watch integrated into a single timepiece -
Sky Moon Tourbillon.


Patek Phillipe is constantly raising the bar of watch craftsmanship, and making possible the seemingly impossible. To purchase an investment, purchase a Patek Phillipe at THE WATCHERY

5 Exceptional Timepieces for Women

At Baselworld 2011, Patek Phillipe SA demonstrates unsurpassed watchmaking skills with the release of a Ladies watch sporting a skeletonized movement.

The manually wound watch is ultra thin, gracefully decorated and engraved by hand. Both front and back of the 31.40mm case are protected by a scratch resistant sapphire crystal with brown tinted parameter creating a window to the Caliber 177 SQU movement. A slender yellow gold linked bracelet elegantly encircles the wrist.

Comprised of 110 components and 18 jewels, this Patek Phillipe SA timepiece is an example of worth.

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Hublot's Big Bang Leopard is a Timepiece of note. In the wild leopards are elusive secretive creatures, who spend much of their time in trees. On the other hand Hublot's Big Bang Leopard is meant to be noticed.

The dial is decorated with a leopard rosette pattern and matching leopard print denim strap. Matching smoked quartz, andalusites, and citrine baguette cut stones punctuated by Hublot's signature H-shaped screws accentuate the bezel. The 18k red gold ,41mm case house a HUB4300 automatic chronograph movement. 18k red gold hands and yellow diamond hour markers indicate the time.
A timepiece created for the inner wild.





Van Cleef & Arpels awakes the spring in its latest unique Poetry of Time Haute Jewelry timepiece. It is a jungle scene. A pink flower in full bloom supported by diamond vines shelter a dial beneath its sapphire encrusted petals. If the skies fill with rain, the flower moves over and protects the dial. Monkeys crafted in white gold and set with high quality hand picked stones, as with the entire timepiece, frolic among leaves of emeralds and sapphires. Alternating bands of onyx and diamonds accentuate their tails crafted to simulate their boundless energy. With this timepiece Van Cleef and Arpels has, for now, come to the end of its Voyage Extraordinaire and what a voyage it has been.
The white gold case ,ringed with diamonds, houses a Swiss Quartz movement. A jewelry bracelet set with diamonds completes the look.


Flowers, jewelery or timepiece? Flowers, jewelry or timepiece? What does a women want? Breguet has solved this dilemma with its Petite Fleur Haute Jewerly watch. 43 baguette-cut diamond petals attached to hidden pivots flutter and quiver with the movement of the wrist. The concave dial is set with 141 diamonds arranged in the snow setting technique concealing the white metal dial beneath. Blued steel hollow tipped hands are hand molded to precisely move across the concave surface of the dial. A domed sapphire Crystal baring the individual number of the timepiece protects the dial. A sapphire Crystal case back displaying high quality finishing ,including circular grained bridges and barleycorn guilloché motif embellishing the platinum oscillating weight, has earned the mechanical automatic timepiece the Geneva Seal.

DeWitt Golden Afternoon Collection is quite fitting for this blog - being an entire collection dedicated to women. The collection was inspired by the Pre-Raphaelites ,a group of English painters, poets, critics who formed a brotherhood in 1848 in celebration of women, romance and symbolic nature. They were none to pleased with the current state of affairs at the Royal Academy and wished to enrich the Academy with a more direct and honest artistic expression overflowing with details, color and complex compositions.

DeWitt's The Golden Afternoon Collection embraces the stages of a women's life capturing her changing perspectives as time moves on. Adding a light sense of fantasy, DeWitt intertwines poetry and art to create a moving collection. The Golden Afternoon Dial depicted to the left, is a mother-of-pearl garden of delicate flowers which seem to float towards the dial. Dark clouds serve as the backdrop adding a powerful contrast quality to the dial. Feathers or "the wings of an angel" dial hands ,depending on how you wish to interpret the dial, indicate the time with the aid of 12 diamond hour markers. A DeWitt logo seems to waft across the dial on a sudden breeze in preparation of a storm. This watch creates a sense of powerful symbolism. Stay tuned for more remarkable additions to DeWitt's Golden Afternoon Collection.

To all the Mother's out there - HAPPY MOTHERS' DAY.

You can own the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon

Back in December I blogged about the Sky Moon Tourbillon,

"The rarest complications integrated in a single timepiece" (Click on the link for detailed information about this remarkable watch)

Now it can be yours ,for a price, of course. Antiquorum, the worlds leading auction house which specializes in luxury timepieces, has the Patek Phillipe Platinum Sky Moon Tourbillon ,made in 2005,up for Auction. The auction will take place in New York, March 4 & 5th. The going price is between$1,000,000 - $1,300,000. If you are wondering about the price ,read the above link to my December blog. To say this watch is a timepiece suggest the watch merely tracks the time. The Tourbillon in the title suggests a beating heart, and the Sky Moon suggests endless possibilities. The Platinum Skymoon Tourbillon Ref. 5002P is only one of the two Sky Moon Tourbillon watches made each year by Patek Phillipe, one in platinum and the other in rose gold. It the clever culmination of 686 parts, some so small, a microscope is required to view their meticulous perfection.

This auction is satiated with deeply historical timepieces such as the "Kennedy Onassis Watch" The very watch worn by JFK and later gifted to Onassis. The timepiece is a Nastrix, 57 jewels circa 1960, engraved on the case back "To John F. Kennedy From the Evangilines 1963" In addition, the word "Waterproof" is engraved on the case back. A term no longer used as no watch can be absolutely waterproof no matter how many gaskets.The term "Water Resistance" is the more acceptable term in the Horological world of today. On the auctioneers block sold somewhere in the range of $150,000 to $250,000. Gandi's pocket watch is also up for auction, a Zenith alarm open face pocket watch, made 1910-1915. Another interesting watch is "The Godfather Watch", a pretty beat up Patek Phillipe yellow gold wristwatch with an integrated bracelet. The watch spent time on the wrist of Giuseppe Bonnano. The "godfather" of the Bonanno crime family.

Antiquorum has just recently celebrated its 30th anniversary, and has solidified its position in the auction world by auctioning off some of the most sought after collectors timepieces and obtaining the highest price. Antiquorum boasts the highest number of watches sold over a million SFr. Out of 67 watches above this price range by major auction houses, 44 have been sold exclusively by Antiquorum. Antiquorum claimed the all-time world record for a wristwatch at auction when it sold a Patek Phillipe ,unique white gold Calibre 89, at its 2004, 30th anniversary April Auction in Geneva.

Antiquorum is renowed for its thematic auctions: auctions devoted to a single subject. In 1989, Antiquorum held an auction titled "The Art of Patek Phillipe" during Patek Phillipe's 150th anniversary. In 2005 during its thematic auction titled "The Quarter Millenium of Vacheron Constantin" it collected a astounding $15,110,000. In April 2007, the Omegamania Auction collected $5,540,000. - three times the auction estimate.

It will be interesting to see the final price collected for the Patek Phillipe Sky Moon Tourbillon.

The rarest complications integrated in a single timepiece.

In 2002, Patek Phillipe unveiled the most complicated wristwatch ever produced- the double faced Sky Moon Tourbillon. On the reverse side of the wristwatch is a complete representation of the night sky. The breathtaking image of the sky portrays the movement of the stars, the orbit of the moon, the moon phases and the hours and minutes in sidereal time. Galileo Galilei (1564-1642) –“the father of modern observational astronomy “ would have been duly impressed.


Patek Phillipe main objective, as with its pocket watch baring the same unity in complications, was not cram the most complications in timepiece but to inspire the horological world with the most complicated and fascinating complications in the small boundaries of a wristwatch:

1. A perpetual calendar with a retrograde date display
2. A minute repeater
3. A Tourbillon
4. The display of a sidereal time
5. Depiction of the night sky with the movement of the stars.
6. The Orbit of the Moon
7. The moon phases.

The Complication that proved to be the biggest challenge was the heavenly display. The heaven is infinite as is time, and to place the display of the heavens within a wrist watch in a clear legible manner is almost impossible except, of course, to the watch making experts at Patek Phillipe. A company founded in 1839 by two Polish immigrants, Antoine Norbert de Patek ,the salesman, and Francois Czapek, the watchmaker, and later joined by Mr. Adrien Phillipe in 1944, a French Watchmaker.
Patek Phillipe deeply rooted in achieving horological milestones, came up with a solution. A solution adapted from Patek Phillipe’s astronomical pocket watches: a moving sky chart on the reverse. The mechanical movement originally developed for the “Star Calibre 2000” was redesigned specifically for the “Sky Moon Tourbillon” and achieved a Swiss patent CH 688 171.

The separate complications are discussed individually below:

1. The perpetual calendar with a retrograde date display

Patek Phillip is the master of perpetual calendars. A perpetual calendar adjusts the date in accordance with the differing lengths of months and leap years. Although in this technological age this does not seem like such a huge accomplishment; however, this is done solely mechanical utilizing a number of intricate parts. The “Sky Moon Tourbillon” displays its perpetual calendar in a unique 270° arc. Each day the date hand shifts one position. At the end of the month whether it is the 28th, 29th , 30th or 31st, the automatic fly back hand jumps to the 1st of the month. The unique mechanism is designed with a highly accurate patented ratchet wheel mechanism as opposed to the more conventional use of cams. On the 1st of the month this highly specialized perpetual calendar mechanism “locks” the date display hand in place to prevent it from rebounding to the 2nd or 3rd month. Four subdials display the additional perpetual calendar information: 1) The days of the week at the 9 ‘o’clock position 2) The month at the 3 ‘o clock position 3)The leap year cycle at the 3 ‘o’clock position 4) The moon age at the 6 ‘o clock position. If the watch is wound on a regular basis the watch need not be adjusted till the year 2100.

2. A Minute Repeater

A minute repeater sounds the hours, quarter hours, and minutes with a gentle chime. This feature accompanies the visionary splendor of the masterpiece with an auditory delight. This function is enabled when a slide on the left of the case is activated. The number of hours is sounded on a low-tone gong, followed by the quarter hours with double strikes on the low-tone and higher-tone gong and then the number of minutes elapsed since the last quarter of an hour on the higher tone gong. The “Sky Moon Tourbillon” has presented the minute repeater in a rare and mesmerizing manner. In the confines of a wrist watch the chime of a minute repeater is often times barely heard. A rich and clear sound is hard to muster, the room must be silent and the sound of the gong striking is likened to a pin being dropped. However in the “Sky Moon Tourbillon” the gong has turned up its volume. With extensive collaboration of the world first class metallurgists of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Lausine, Patek Phillipe developed an alloy for gongs that make a strikingly resonant sound. This alloy has been refined enabling a gong to be more than one case circumference long. This unique gong has earned the title of the “cathedral gong” as it sounds the hour with a rich tone likened to the reverberating cathedral bells.

3. The Tourbillon

From the very beginning of my watch infatuation, the tourbillion has mesmerized me. It is a good thing I do not own one as it clearly would effect my daily routine. I would miss many duties as I sit and gaze at its rotation. The Tourbillon was invented in 1795 by French watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet, a century after Newton defined gravity. Breguet reasoned that as a result of the constant position of the vertical position of the pocket watch, the balance spring is confounded by the effect of gravity effecting the accuracy of the watch. This error could be compensated with a tourbillion whereby the escapement, balance wheel, and balance spring is placed in a rotating carriage which turns once per minute on its own axis. In the Sky Moon Tourbillon, the tourbillion, the balance wheel and the fourth wheel are positioned on a single axis. This unique placement is difficult to accomplish but it provides the best functional opportunity to the tourbillion. The Tourbillon is finely crafted from steel, comprising of 69 individual pieces and weighing in total a mere .03 grams.

4. The Sidereal Time.

The Sidereal time is the measure of the position of the earth in its rotation around its axis. In the Sky Moon Tourbillon this feature is indicated by two hands from the center on the reverse side of the watch. The sidereal time is indicated on a 24-hour scale.

5. Direction of the night sky with the movement of the stars.
6. The Orbit of the Moon
7. The Moon Phases

This is a rare feature of a wrist watch and it is indicated on the reverse side of the watch. The canopy of the Northern (or upon request Southern) hemisphere rotates counter clockwise beneath the scratch resistant sapphire crystal case back, portraying the movement of the stars and the moon, the meridian passages of Sirius – the brightest star in the night sky , the moon as well as its waxing and waning moon phases. An elliptical contour indicates the part of the night sky viewed from a specific location. This masterpiece comprises of a gear train specifically built for this complication.

Patek Phillipe has successfully achieved an unprecedented level of precision in its astronomical display.

The “Sky Moon Tourbillon” is manually wound and is comprised of 694 individual parts. Each part is hand finished. Each edge is finely beveled and every single tooth of every gear is carefully hand polished in an additional process using a rotating hardwood disc. The plate and the module with the perpetual calendar are finished on either side with a technique of circular graining – “perlage” The bridges are engraved with Geneva striping. This additional polishing and engraving earn the prestigious Geneva Seal as well as the COSC Chronometer certificate.

The case is available in 18k yellow gold or solid platinum which is aesthetically pleasing. The “Sky Moon Tourbillon” is by no means a small watch at 42.8 millimteres in diameter and 16.25 millimeters in height; however, the exceptional craftsmanship provides a distinctive elegance to the watch. The case is decorated with the engraving of halved Calatrava Crosses. Calatrava Crosses also adorn the middle of the dial. The Calatrava Cross is the brand symbol of today’s Patek Phillipe. The Crosses roots extend deep into the middle ages to the year 1158. It was in that year that a Spanish religious order defended the Calatrava citadel against the moors. Patek Phillipe adopted the emblem of these brave knights at the end of the 19th century.
The crown at the 4 ‘o’clock position winds the movement and sets the hands on the front of the watch. The crown positioned at the 2 ‘o clock rectifies the position of the sky chart and the hands on the reverse side of the watch that indicate the sidereal time. When turned in the opposite direction, this crown corrects the position of the moon and the moon phase display. A setting stylus is used to activate a number of correction button on the side of the case. The button between the 11 and 12 ‘o clock corrects the date and the day of the week, the button between the 3 and 4 ‘o clock corrects the month and the button between the 6 and 7 ‘o clock corrects only the day of the week. The minute repeater slide is recessed in the case on the left hand side. The strap is hand stitched crocodile leather. The front of the dial is crafted from gold, coated with silvery opaline. The hours are indicated by Roman Numerals. The retrograde date display is located between the 2 and 10 o’ clock position with a fueille hand made of blued steel.

This wristwatch is one of the Patek Phillipe’s most complicated wristwatches ever introduced as a regular production. The movements alone take many months to complete and as a result of the intensive production, assembly and meticulous regulating procedures, annual production is limited to two timepieces.

Striving for the ultimate luxury watch material

Since the first watch was created, watch makers have been striving to better their timepieces in terms of accuracy, durability and aesthetics. Watch manufacturers are forging ahead inventing exciting new materials. Many of these material innovations are targeted to eliminate friction without the use of oils and thereby obtaining greater accuracy in mechanical movement and simultaneously increasing durability and decreasing weight. Up till now the oils and lubricants are critical for reducing the friction of wheels. These oils and lubricants deteriorate with time requiring ongoing watch maintenance. Is there a material that is so friction free within itself that no oils or lubricants are necessary to maintain the accuracy of the timepiece?


Patek Phillipe has gained great ground in the progress of inventing an oil free watch in experimenting with the potential application of silicium in watchmaking techniques. During the past six years Patek Phillipe Advanced Research Department developed Silinvar - a patented substance derived from oxidising the constituents of pure silicium in a vacuum. From this material , Silinvar, Patek Phillipe has presented an escape wheel, a hairspring and an escapement which requires absolutely no oiling as well as eliminating long term servicing concerns, resistance to corrosion and magnetism and in addition improves the performance of the mechanical movement. Patek Phillip has utilized Silinvar in its Patek Philippe Ref. 5450 Annual Calendar watch. This platinum timepiece, produced in a limited series of 300, features an escape wheel, hairspring, and pallet fork in Silinvar which boasts a density 1/3 that of steel components.

Richard Mille agenda in developing a new material was to create an ultra lightweight watch that is expectationally resistant. The success was in the RM 009 which has Alusic for the case- a super light hybrid material- aluminium AS7G, silicium and carbon used for the production of ultra-light satellites, and another aluminium-lithium alloy for the tourbillon skeleton movement. The RM 009 weighs just over one ounce and is the worlds lightest mechanical watch ever produced as well as being extremely resistant.






Audemar Piguet has adopted carbon for its Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Line as Carbon is both lightweight and shock resistant.




Jaeger-LeCoultre presented a watch that required no lubrication - the ExtremeLab Tourbillon. Jaeger-LeCoultre tested the amazing properties of its watch to a whole slew of witnesses to provide evidence for its claim. The watch was first subjected to extreme temperatures from -40 degrees Celsius to + 60 degrees Celsius. A quartz watch and another regular mechanical watch was used as a control. When these watches were removed from the test baths only one was working - you guesses it - the ExtremeLab Tourbillon. The success is not as a result of a simple new material but a collage of 13 different materials such as carbon, titanium, ceramic, magnesium, polyurethane, carbonitride Easium, silicium carbonitride, black crystalline diamond, platinum-iridium and Ticalium. The end result is a new calibre, the 988C. Jaeger-LeCoultre is definitely ahead in the game for the development of ultimate watch - a watch where time does not symbolize the nearing of the end, but merely the passage of time.


Some Watch Manufacturers have developed there very own materials that actually bear there name: Zenithium - A Zenith innovation. Zenith has every right to name a material after its company. 7% of all Zenith turnover was poured into years of research and development. The end result is Zenithium which is three times stronger than steel. The material is comprised of titanium for resistance, nobium for memory of shapes, and aluminium for lightweight. Zenith is not the only company to name a material after its company:


Hublot has created Hublonium. Hublonium which combines magnesium and aluminium creating a timepiece that is lightweight and durable. Its Mag Bang timepiece is the first timepiece ever to have a movement and case made of the same material.


These materials are incredible in innovation and functionality, but don't kiss the good old elements goodbye ... not just yet.

Traditional materials such as brass (copper and zinc), steel (iron and carbon) and nickel silver (copper, nickel and zinc) are still favored in watch productions. Many modern companies have attacked the use of these materials as old-fashioned; however, steel pinions and brass wheels still provide the best friction coefficient and so these two alloys remain crucial in modern watch production. In addition, these materials are familiar to watchmakers and watch repairers throughout the world, and there workbenches are laden with tools, oils and lubricants designed to service these old time materials. If these new materials flood the market will the watch makers know how to repair these pieces or are these pieces going to be so durable that no repair is needed?
These pieces are still very costly as the price incorporates the years of research and development as well as the specialized craftsmanship and materials required to manufacture a watch of this calibre.

The Self-Winding Luxury Wristwatch.

Or more commonly referred to as the Automatic Watch. Most Mechanical Watches nowadays are equipped with a self-winding mechanism. In other words the mainspring is wound automatically by the natural swinging motion of the wearer's arm.

You might be wearing one at the very moment... so how does it work?

The watch contains a semi-circular rotor - depicted in the image of the Perrelet Watch. This rotor is an eccentric weight that turns on a pivot within the watch case. Natural movement of the wearer's arm causes the rotor to swing to and fro on its staff. The staff is attached to a ratcheted winding mechanism. The motion of the wearer's arm is transformed into a circular motion of the rotor that by a series of reverser and reducing gears winds the mainspring. Most modern automatic luxury watches have two ratchets and thus wind the mainspring during clockwise and counterclockwise rotor motion.
Once the mainspring is fully wound, a regular watch can store enough power reserve for two days. Most automatic watches can be wound manually if the watch is not worn sufficiently to keep the mainspring wound. Another alternative to keep automatic watches running is the use of a watch winders.

Abraham-Louis Perrelet invented the self-winding mechanism ,in 1770 ,for pocket watches. The watch wound as the wearer walked. An oscillating weight inside the hefty pocket watch moved up and down. Perrelet invention was quite the rage in 1776. The Geneva Society of Arts reported that only a 15 minute walk was enough to wind the watch sufficiently for eight days. In 1777 the automatic pocket watches were selling quite nicely.

Breguet improved on Perrelet mechanism calling his automatic pocket watches "perpetuelles"

Although the first wrist watch was introduced by Patek Philippe in 1868, the automatic rotor for wrist watches was not invented until 1923 by a watch repairer from the Isle of Man named John Harwood. This self-winding mechanism was an improvement as the wearer only had to move his arm not take a walk. Harwood's system utilized a a pivoting weight which swung as the wearer moved, winding the mainspring. The ratchet mechanism only swung in one direction and were stopped at 180 degrees by spring bumpers to encourage the back and forth motion. This early type of automatic watch is now known as a "bumper". Fully wound the bumper would run for 12 hours. The "bumper" did not have a stem winder and so the hands were moved manually by rotating a bezel around the face of the watch. The Harwood Self-Winding Watch went on sale in 1928 and 30,000 were produced until the company collapsed in the Great Depression.

Rolex improved Harwood's design in 1930 and used it for the basis of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual which had a mounted semi-circular weight which could rotate a full 360 degrees. Rolex Oyster Perpetual had 35 hours of stored energy.




Omega is the only Automatic watch that utilizes a Co-Axial movement which is a double Axial escape wheel, a lever with three pallet stones and impulse stone on the balance roller, together with a free sprung balance. This system reduces sliding friction compared with the lever escapement inorder to promote greater accuracy over the course of time.


Watch Companies like Concord still create manually wound watches and can be produced
with exceptionally thin watch cases like the slender Concord Delirium pictured above which has a Watch Case of just 6mm. This type of thickness cannot be achieved by an automatic watch as the rotor occupies space within the watch case. However with the knowledge that ones watch is being wound as you wear it does afford a certain peace of mind.

By: R Van Halem