Kamis, 07 Januari 2010

The Scientific Approach of Greubel Forsey

Greubel Forsey has made great strides in the realms of complicated watches by inventing and reinventing new ways of complicated time display. Last year the Quadruple Tourbillon (image above) was awarded "Best Complicated Watch" at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie Asia. Two other great achievements include the 24 Second Inclined Tourbillon and the Double Tourbillon 30°
Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey success is partly due to their methodical scientific approach to the process of watch making. Striving for perfection can potentially lead watch manufacturers on an endless quest, without a specific goal in sight. This prompted Greubel Forsey's introduction of its innovation platform - Experimental Watch Technology or EWT. This empirical approach utilizes experimentation and resulting data to determine the performance of the watch whilst manipulating different variables and verifying the unknown. This approach is time consuming, but extremely effective, and provides Greubel Forsey with a definite edge in watch technology.
EWT has provided Greubel Forsey with the tools to formulate new inventions, two of which are currently in the works: The Binomial, and a cutting edge isochronically stable material used to craft the balance and the spring as well as a spherical Equality Differential harboring its own energy reserve that can offer a constant force to the oscillators.
However, scientific approach cannot vouch for the undeniable aesthetic designs and superb finishing of their timepieces. That aspect is acquired by creative minds and exceptional experience.

I look forward to Greubel Forsey first appearance at this years SIHH commencing on January 17th.

Selasa, 05 Januari 2010

Piaget and Vacheron Constantin Opts for Ultra Slim.


Vacheron Constantin, a prestigious watch company, brings back its thinnest watches, and they are not alone, Piaget will be also be unveiling its ultra thin timepiece at the SIHH 2010.
Does this mean thin is back in?
Thin was all the rage back in the 1950's and 1960's where thin meant exceptionally refined craftsmanship where precise mechanical craftsmanship was able to operate to perfection in an extremely confined space. In 1955 Vacheron Constantin unveiled its ultra thin timepiece - 120 parts within a watch case as thin as a coin making this watch the thinnest watch in the world. The hand wound mechanical watch requiring expertise beyond the norm. In 1968 Vacheron Constantin unveiled another ultra- fine model.
Today Vacheron Constantin has revived its quest for slimness. The result is two remarkable creations inspired by its earlier collections.
The Historique Ultra-fine 1955 timepiece is the worlds thinnest hand wound watch to date. Measuring in at just 4.10mm thick, this watch is powered by a slim 1.64 mm mechanical hand wound 1003 movement. The watch will be unveiled for its 55th anniversary and will be available in 18 carat gold emblazoned with the Hallmark of Geneva.
The Historique Ultra- fine 1968 will return with an ultra-thin mechanical self-winding 1120 with decorated oscillating weight and baring the Hallmark of Geneva.At SIHH Piaget will unveil its ultra-thin Piaget Altiplano celebrating the 50th anniversary of its 1960 Calibre 12P, the thinnest automatic mechanical movement of its time. Piaget will present the self-winding Calibre 1208P, an historic milestone in itself. At a mere 2.35mm, the Calibre 1208P is the thinnest self-winding movement available today.
The Piaget Atiplano will encase the Calibre 1208P in its new 43mm case size, and measuring in at 5.25mm thick, the Atilplano will break a record as being the thinnest watch in its category.

It seems over the last century Vacheron Constantin and Piaget have done a bit of competing in regard to ultra-thin movements. In 1955 Vacheron Constantin boasts the ultra-thin movement only to be broken two years later by Piaget's 2 mm thick hand-wound movement thus keeping up the constant strive for excellence.

Senin, 04 Januari 2010

Tag Heuer Celebrates 150 Years of Watch Making

Tag Heuer is celebrating its 150th anniversary and what could be more fitting to its celebration than the re release of its 1974 classic Silverstone Chronograph. Tag Heuer is closely linked to the race track even implementing elements of a car engine in its Monaco V4. Thus the Silverstone Chronograph, whose very shape is inspired by the British circuit of the same name, is the perfect Collection to represent Tag Heuer's energy, split second precision and craftsmanship. The 1974 Silverstone was the first automatic chronograph movement immediately recognizable by the rounded corners of the watch case inspired by the Silverstone race track - home of British Motorsport.
The 2010 Silverstone will be available sporting either a blue or brown dial and coordinating perforated alligator watch strap, and a limited edition of 1,500 pieces at $6,500 a piece.

Tag Heuer has also renewed its long time partnership with the McLaren Racing team. At twenty five years this renewal is one of the longest standing partnerships in motor sport's history.

Selasa, 29 Desember 2009

Top Ten Dazzling Timepieces of 2009!

Smothered with diamonds, accentuated with rubies, dripping with emeralds, purring with complications, roaring with cutting edge materials: the ostentatious, the superb, the grandeur, you gotto love a luxury timepiece. So now as the year draws to a close let us capture the finest of the finest and listen to our heart beat quicken in delight.1) My personal favorite, Hublot's Black Cavier Bang. The Black Cavier won the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve prize for jewelery watch of the year 2009. A mosaic of over 500 rare black diamonds, the Hublot Black Cavier Bang took over 2000 hours to create. Everything about the watch is unique from its rhodium plated diamond polished skeleton hands, diamond encrusted power reserve indicator marking a 120 hour power reserve, eye catching tourbillon, manually wound HUB Solo T Tourbillon and sapphire crystal treated with interior anti-reflection treatment. The most unique aspect of this watch ,aside for its one million dollar price tag, is the fact that it is one of its kind. No other Black Cavier Bang will be produced.2) How would you like a diamond wrap. Piaget loves to go all out when it comes to haute joaillerie. After all when one wants to create a masterpiece, one wants to create something magnificent, something that will cause a stir among the people. This horological bedazzlement is part of Piaget's Limelight watch collection for 2009. After hours of craftsmanship involving diamond cutting and setting, working the 18k white gold to achieve the swirling effect, and assembling the watch, the effect is mesmerizing. The watch dial is hidden behind the diamond curls when the watch is not being read, thus increasing the jewelry effect. All in all 40 carats adorn the luxury timepiece meant to dizzy the senses with extravagance.
3) Got $300,000 to spare, well if you do the Sarcar Carrousel is quite an option. What caught my eye was the blatant "in your face" diamond exposure. This watch is a creation of Sarcar, a Swiss watch company founded in 1948 by Carlo Sarzano. The 12 half carat diamonds set in gold float freely against the mother of pearl backdrop. More diamonds pave the bezel and the area beneath the watch hands of the 40mm watch case. The watch boasts a total of 399 diamonds. A black alligator strap renders a comfortable fit and closed with a gold folding clasp.4) Where the diamonds? You may ask. Well their are no diamonds on this extraordinarily unique Tag Heuer Monaco V4 timepiece, but it is a gem of a watch none the less and we have been waiting awfully long for its appearance. At a point I had my doubts that we would ever see the final product. But 2009 is the year. The watch is fashioned from no less than 170 grams of platinum, but it is its movement that really raises eyebrows. I am told this watch is fashioned after a car engine, since I know little about car engines and would much rather tinker with a watch movement.

5)This latest men's masterpiece from Dior is pure eye candy. The crimson mineral glass baths the underlying manually wound tourbillon movement in red light. Diamonds dotted with rubies smother the bezel in a lavish display. Diamonds and rubies parade along the stunning bracelet. The hands are simple so as not to mask the beauty that lays beneath. The 42mm case is crafted from white gold. The skeletonization of the dial displays the fine gears and exceptional craftsmanship.
So how much does a beauty like this cost? Well you will have to dig deep into your pockets. At 1.3 million Swiss Francs this watch is quite costly, but if acquired you do get the bragging rights that this exceptional timepiece has been nominated in the awards for the 2009 Geneva Grand Prix d'Horlogerie.


6) And what of complications? Zenith provides as always with a spectacular Full Set Lady Moonphase Watch. The vertical diamond paved bezel gives this chronograph timepiece a sense of adventure. The shape of the 37.5, 18K white gold watch case is a diamond encrusted port hole displaying a magnificent mother-of-pearl dial baring a moon phase, chronograph, date and hours, minutes, seconds and day indicators. As always we must have a diamond total, and Zenith doesn't disappoint. Approximately 4.88 carat comprise of 533 round diamonds The Full Set Lady Moonphase Watch is powered by a Zenith’s El Primero 410 automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve. This watch is deliciously infused with serious watch craftsmanship and elegance.7) The Golden Bridge Lady by Corum is the height of elegance. One almost doesn't know where to look first. Corum has taken a new position in regard to its iconic Golden Bridge collection by placing the he hand-wound mechanical baton movement horizontally. 2.5 carats of diamonds cluster on the bezel like flood lights illuminating a grand spectacle. And grand it is, the wheels in motion are captivating beneath the exquisitely engraved bridge.
The sultry curved lines of the bezel, perpendicular to the bridge provides exudes a sense of liquidity and elegance. The angled rows of diamonds are set with incredible precision.

As a result of the incredible complexity and craftsmanship required to manufacture a luxury watch with this degree of excellence, only a few Golden Bridge for ladies will be crafted each year. The watches will be available in either 18k red or white gold.8) Okay you can breath now. Ulysse Nardin Moonstruck Watch takes Moonphase to an entirely new level.
9) Yes, I admit you are quite familiar with the Cartier Balon Bleu, but do not be deceived as the packaging of this Cartier masterpiece is unique. The name Cartier has bestowed on its newest creation is quite mysterious: ID One Concept Watch. The name has a detached cold ring to it. Oh well, it is likely Cartier wants to show its technological side of watchmaking. The watch is crafted from Niobium Titanium, which is harder and more resilient than titanium. This is truly a watch material of the future reducing long term maintenance and initial regulation. Many watch companies have been striving for the perfect material requiring minimal lubrication (as over time deterioration of lubricants impede watch performance). 
10) Angular Momentum's Belle Epoque Eternal Time Watch. A splash of diamonds tendrils create a star. Two large baguette diamonds rest at the 12 and 6 o clock position . Time is displayed via two gold orbs, the larger for the hours, smaller for minutes. The entire watch is powered by an automatic movement.

Rabu, 23 Desember 2009

Omega's Museum Collection's Latest Edition.

Omega is releasing modern versions of watches from its past. The latest of which is the Omega Milestone 1941 (above), the ninth in Omega's Museum Collection. Based on the original CK 2080 (inset) which was released in 1938, the newer version has a busier face which includes a tachymeter ( to compute speed based on travel time or measure distance based on speed), telemeter just below the bezel (to measure the distance of a phenomenon which is both visible and audible i.e thunder and lightening), 30 minute chronograph and the time. Although the face is quite busy, the hour ring is immediately discernible with aid of the large bold 12, 6 and hour indicators and hands coated in SuperLumiNova. The minute track is between the telemeter and the tachymeter. The two sub-dials at the 3 'o' clock and 9 'o' clock displays a the 30 minute chronograph and seconds counter respectively. The inner concentric circles are related to the tachymeter measurements.
At face value, the Omega Milestone 1941 or Number 9 as it sometimes is reffered to is quite similiar, both have a black face, white dial markings and really cool lugs; however beneath the surface the difference is quite marked. The CK 2080's newer counterpart sports a modern Omega Caliber 3203 Co-Axial manually wound movement with a column wheel for the chronograph complication. The Omega CK 2080 from 1938 was a stainless steel watch quite popular among the high ranking military officers. The Omega Milestone 1941 is crafted from 18k white gold with a limited edition of only 1941 pieces meant for collectors and watch enthusiasts.
Omega's vision in presenting the Omega's Museum Collection is to combine its long standing tradition of fine watchmaking and its dedication to cutting edge technology.

Selasa, 22 Desember 2009

Rev Up your Engines with Panerai Ferrari

Panerai FER00011 Ferrari Granturismo Stainless Steel Yellow and Black Dial Leather and Rubber Men's Automatic Tachymeter Chronograph Chronometer Watch
This explosive collaboration began in 2006 at a Ferrari test track in Maranello, Italy amidst the smell of burnt rubber and race fuel, blending two iconic Italian brands: Ferrari and Panerai. The result is a watch encapsulating a powerful energy baring the "Cavallino Rampante" or "Prancing Stallion". The watch I have chosen to depict embodies the colors of the Ferarri race team - black horse on yellow background. Ferrari was founded as Scuderia Ferrari in 1929 by Enzo Ferarri originally as a manufacturer of race cars. Drivers were sponsored and Ferari tucked many Formula One, Grand Prix and other championships under its belt. In 1947 Ferrari began production of street legal vehicles.
The prancing horse is a symbol of good fortune first used by Count Francesco Baracca, a national hero of World War I and an exceptional fighter pilot of the Italian Air Force who would paint a horse in red on a white cloud on the side of his planes. Later he adopted the black stallion as a personal emblem. He died in 1918. On June 17, 1923, Enzo Ferrari raced to victory at the Savio track in Ravenna, where he met Count Francesco Barraca's mother who presented Enzo with the Count's emblem. Enzo chose the black stallion, which was originally painted on the Count's squadron planes as a tribute to the Count's former cavalry regiment and a fallen pilot. Ferrari used the canary yellow background as it is the color of the city Modena, his birthplace.

The black stallion an iconic symbol now adorns the dial of the Panerai Ferrari watches, a perfect watch for a sportsman.
Ferarri was at one time in agreement with Girard-Perregaux but when that expired, Panerai stepped in. This new partnership made the utmost sense, two Italian brands deeply entrenched in Italian tradition, both striving for technical excellence, superb craftsmanship, exceptional quality and distinct design.
" We took inspiration for these watches from the Ferrari cars and we took inspiration from Panerai. You can recognize the shape and designs from Panerai , but it is a totally new case expressly made for Ferrari. Every time, step by step, we showed our work to Jean Todt and the Ferrari team, and they approved it or they asked us to go back and look at the cars, to provide us with inspiration. They were very kind to us, because they allowed us freedom to work; they allowed us to adapt the DNA of Ferrari and Panerai. We cannot forget Panerai, because it comes from our heart, but on the other side we need to show the face of Ferrari. You have to recognize that this is Ferrari. When we see the watch, you can tell it is a Panerai watch, but you also recognize that it's Ferrari."
Jean Todt, chairman of Ferrari said in 2006 in regard to this partnership, "Made in Italy is very important to us. I have followed the development of the watches very carefully. I want Ferrari people and Ferrari drivers to be wearing these beautiful watches."

There are two main lines of Ferrari watches one is Grantourismo - the elegant sport models and the other is the heart pumping, engine revving tire squealing aggressive sports model - the Scederia line.

Selasa, 08 Desember 2009

A Difference in Time

Every once in a while, I peruse the net, for truly original watches.

It is amazing the versatility of an object such as the watch, and to think in the end the integral function remains the same: To track the passage of time. A watch that does not track the time is not a watch, but an entirely different instrument. Now Romaine Jerome's "Day & night" Watch has no numbers, but does track the time by dividing Day and Night, just like the ancients. When the world consisted of hunters and gatherers, there was no need for hours, minutes or seconds, the only time that mattered was powered by the earths rotation on its own axis providing us with night and day, and its orbit around the sun providing us with the seasons. A timepiece such as Romaine Jerome's night and day has reached into the essence of time, free from the boundaries of man , and providing us with the passage of time tracked since the beginning of time.

The Earth Watch WN-1 introduced by Think The Earth group and Seiko back in 2008, would be the perfect watch for the United Nations Climate Change Conference in Copenhagen, which started yesterday and goes until December 18th. The time on the watch is indicated by the globe making a full rotation every 24 hours. A tiny indicator on the edge of the globe displays the hour, and a little dot rotating around the globe indicates minutes. WN-1 Earth Watch’s case is made from a titanium body with a resilient Hardlex crystal dome to protect the earth’s climate. The watch is powered by Quartz with a custom set of 3 reducing gears in the drive train.
The watches black band is made from Sophista, a sports type synthetic fabric that absorbs sweat. In addition the watch is water resistant up to 100m. The ‘Think The Earth’ WN-1 Earth Watch is a constant reminder to us that the world is a orb unto itself and us as its inhabitants must do the best we can to protect it.


It seems these watches are still in the concept stages, but the idea is pretty cool. Designed by by PLAYOFF and Balykin Pavel from Behance.net. Sand+Time Watch is awarded by reddot design and it’s also the winner of watch design in 2006. I love the idea of a digital hourglass. While you can still have time in digital, you can also enjoy pixar animated sand flowing through the hourglass. Perfect for Pictionary.


This Hologram watch is kind of spooky and kind of funky. The time is displayed on a hologram surface through the negative space, but only when you want it too. Most of the time the watch just appears to be a bracelet.



Give the Faceless LED Watch as a gift and you may have your gift recipient turning the watch over and over desperately trying to find the time. The Faceless Led Watch is crafted by Hironao Tsuboi. The red numerals cast the relevant glow of numerals according to the time. Quite mysterious and highly original.



With my busy schedule the About Time Watch won't cut it for me. One rolls the watch around on a flat surface, and the time is the area that touches the table, but there are no real numbers, but rather vague suggestions as to the time frame. Phrases such as "it may be more like around eight, but if you want, it could be nine."

Binary Time Watches. To me they are just a couple of colorful lights, but to Geeks out there these watches are excellent time displays. I have seen a number of different versions of Binary watches and each one looks ,well, binary.