Ebel X-1 Xtremly Trendy

Ebel has come out with a seriously trendy watch collection.  The Ebel  X-1.  The design has a clunky sporty side with a distinct underlying elegance. I really like this collection of watches as they fit right into the current stylistic arena while still maintaining an ebel fluidity and sensuality so distinct in its beluga lines.
The mid-range ladies watches run from $2,500 to $7,900 price range based on gold content and diamonds.

Model# 1216117 Price: $4,900.00

The model depicted above is my favorite based on its rare color and rose gold accentuations.  The hue is the result of brushed and polished PVD-finished stainless steel. The silver galvanic dial adds a mysterious edgy charm beneath a scratch resistant sapphire crystal.  Sapphire Crystal is a must for mid-to upper range watches.  Lower Range watches like Michael Kors will have mineral crystal - not as hard as Sapphire Crystal and more prone to scratches.

Model#1216107 Price:$2,500

The women's  34mm brushed and polished stainless steel is a classy everyday watch with an elegant edge. At $2,500, this model is the most least expensive of the line; however still maintaining the exquisite representation of quality and worth.  As with the other models, the stainless steel model is water resistant to 100meters.   Click here for more info on water resistance.

Model#1216116 Price: $7,900

 At $7,900 this polished white ceramic and 18k rose gold case accentuated with a 15 diamond crown and a 48 diamond rose gold bezel is definitely the dressiest of the group.  The watch is a relished beauty suited for the most elegant of occasions and equipped for the week day wear. The movement, as all these models, are quartz.  A Quartz watch is powered by a battery and utilizes an electronic oscillator regulated by  quartz crystal.  As a result of the battery, a quartz watch requires no external energy source and thus requires little attention the actual mechanism of the timepiece.  About 90% of women's watches are quartz whereas about 60% of men's.  Obviously in the low range watches this percentage increases.  In the high range watches - where women's and men's watches run into the ten or hundred thousand mark, the percentage of quartz watches decrease; however more so for men's watches than women's watches. Whereas there is virtually no quartz watch in men's higher range watches, you still may find a couple women's watches, but as of late high-end watches for women are incorporating mechanical movements.

Mechanical movements require a constant outside source of energy provided by the swinging motion of ones arm triggering the movement of a rotor (mostly situated at the back of the watch - best material for this is tungsten), which winds the mainspring.  Watches powered this way are called automatic watches. The watch automatically winds by the swinging motion of ones arm. Manual mechanical watches require winding at the crown.    Increments of time are regulated by the precise motion of the balance wheel.
Mechanical watches require attention to the power reserve  of the timepiece, and can be somewhat of a hassle for a lady who has as many watches as shoes. If all her watches are mechanical and she does not utilize a watch winder, than more often than not her watches  have stopped calling for an exasperating excuse of lateness.
I suppose that is why many ladies watches are quartz.
As usual I went a bit off topic, but all in the name of horological education.

A. Lange & Sohne Grand Lange 1 "Lumen" A Player of Light at SIHH 2013

Every watch company wants to unveil a unique aspect to time telling, whether it be in a twist on a tourbillon; an avant garde alloy, a dashing design or an unparallelled precision in performance.  For the SIHH 2013 A. Lange & Sohne has focused on luminescence in an exceedingly interesting way. 

One can immediately identify the large luminous date which takes up a prominent position towards the top of the dial. This is the first time A. Lange and Sohne has used luminescence on its signature large size date as well as its power reserve.   An intriguing aspect of the watch is the darkened partial transparency of the dial created from sapphire crystal covering the date disc like a darkened area of a stage waiting  for its scene, but there is a very valid reason for this.  Unlike the dial hands and Indicators, the future date does not see the light of day - critical for the effectiveness of  lume (For an in depth explanation Read What is Lume?), thus in order for the A. Lange and Sohne's large date aperture to glow in the dark as soon as the next calender date appears, it would have to receive a certain amount of light prior to its appearance in the date aperture - hence the transparent sapphire crystal covering the date disc. The idea of the tinted Sapphire Crystal dial is not entirely new, but a "date targeted" change to its A. Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk Luminous Timepiece.

Now the watch itself  is a thing of beauty isn't it? The luminescence across the dial is bestowed with a flourish.  No meager dribbles 

of the stuff, like A. Lange & Sohne's earlier versions,  but thick plentiful layers of lume which glow with a clear splendor in the dark.  Of course after a couple  hours

the glow does fade, but then the alternative, tritium, which can glow for a good 12.5 years  even in a stygian grotto

has the uncomfortable  chemistry ,albeit eons of half-life's weaker, associated with another element: Radium.  Now Radium ,which is highly radioactive given its own founders, Marie Curie's, unfortunate demise and, of course the suffering of those poor young girls , has scared off a good many companies from even tentatively using tritium. One such company is Panerai. - But that story for another day.   Now I must mention the tritium used in watches today is encapsulated in tubes and as far as I've read have no ill-health effects.


Anyway I have strayed again - quite a bad thing which may send my readership plummeting into the very Stygian grotto I have aforementioned.

This watch is not for mass consumption, but rather an elite few limited to 100 pieces.  The case is crafted from platinum  - a metal often used for commemoration timepieces where the original timepiece was of steel craftsmanship, limited editions accentuating the prestige and/or watches destined to become a coveted collectors item. The manually wound movement is in-house (anything less would surely raise an eyebrow or two) A. Lange & Sohne caliber L095.2 comprised of  400 parts baring 42 jewels and capable of a 72 hour power reserve. The watch is strapped to the wrist by a hand stitched crocodile strap and secured with a platinum signature Lange prong buckle. 

I must say this is a fine piece - very fine indeed.

The Skull by Romain Jerome and John Armleder

Romain Jerome John M Armleder Art-DNA watches (1 of 10 unique)

Romain Jerome collaborates with highly regarded Geneva born contemporary artist, John M Armleder in a series of ten unique  Art-DNA watches. Each watch crafted from polished steel will be presented in a unique colors.  The signature John M. Armleder skull, which he has used in countless creative backdrops - such as emblazoned on a mirror - now serves as a imposing image atop Romain Jerome's  hammered polished dial.
Manuel Emch, CEO of Romain Jerome since 2009, has a great appreciation for contemporary art.

John M. Armleder received his inspiration for the creation of the skull motif from the Amerindian culture.

Manuel Emch, the CEO of RJ-Romain Jerome, is a devoted collector of modern art,  and explained, "I have wanted to link my passions for contemporary art and watchmaking for some time now, and apply this idea of art as a unique item or limited edition to a watch ...for me it was important to work with a Swiss artist because of the company's origins, and my admiration for John M Armleder's work and his role as a model for young artists meant that I didn't have to look for long."

John M. Armleder is not simply an artist, rather an entire art philosophy.  Born in 1948, his skills cover a wide range of artistic representations such as performance artist, sculpture and painter. His philosophy focuses the fact that art in itself is a conduction of creative energy. He is renowned for his 1980's furniture sculptures , where furniture often in monochrome was juxtaposed with abstract art.  He is also associated with the Neo-Geo artistic movement of the 1980's.  A movement which is probably better described within the age of its occurrence - refer to The New York Times Article dated July 6th, 1987.

No doubt about it John Armleder is a constant example and role model of  avant garde creations and a wellspring of intriguingly unique perceptions of space. His creations are not isolated from the environment in which they exist, but command the space while embracing its unique geometry.

The case back is engraved with the signature of John Armleder and the Piece Unique. An alligator strap seals the deal with a price tag of $22,802 USD.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur 36 to Deliver Dazzle at SIHH 2013

Roger Dubuis Excalibur 36 

Make way! Roger Dubuis Excalibur 36 for women is tearing down the red carpet dressed in a dazzling display of haute horology.  She is dressed in her finest. A flurry of camera flashes illuminate a warm rich pallor of pink gold accentuated by two shimmering trains of 624 diamonds trailing along her polished bracelet. The diamonds of brilliant cut - amount to 3.79 carats.  A choker of diamonds upon the bezel surround a face of serene sensuality. Pink Gold Roman Numerals languish beneath slender hands of delicate grace.  A perfectly placed discrete seconds sub dial  mark time in increments of utmost precision.

All marvel at her beauty and grace as she steps upon the stage to receive her award. Of course this is not her first award.  The Roger Dubuis Excalibur holds the Hallmark of Geneva and we all know what a feat of accomplishment that is.  In fact Roger Dubuis, her maker, was the first brand to adhere to the new stringent requirements outlined by the Poinçon de Genève. Read about the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph it here. 
She is a Chronometer too given to her by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres or COSC.  It is no easy feat to attain this exemplar status. Read about it here.

Aside from her outside beauty, the Roger Dubuis Excalibur 36 has an inner beauty which is revealed in her  perfection of timekeeping.  Encased in a lovely exterior is an exceptional interior.  An exquisite cutting edge mechanical marvel , the automatic calibre RD821 makes her heart beat.  172 components function in mechanical harmony.

And if you wonder if she will tire on an evening such as this. Your Roger Dubuis Excalibur 36 has a power reserve of 48 hours.

And who is the dashing young man by her side.  A man dressed in midnight blue, rugged steel case and a black leather strap.  A vision of daring masculine ruggedness not quite masking a distinct aura of dependability and reliability.  Meet the Excalibur 42 Chronograph. His heart beats to a slightly different drum, the 280 component RD681 automatic chronograph movement baring a micro-rotor.  A micro rotor is as efficient as a regular rotor which usually commands the entire case back.  The micro rotor only takes up the space comparable to a sub dial.
Some men are hard to read and keep their thoughts hidden beneath a layer of macho repose; however all is revealed with startling clarity on the face of  the in-house Roger Dubuis Excalibur 42 Chronograph.  The sword shaped watch hands point to the hour and minute with precise intensity.  Seconds are revealed at the 9 'o'clock position and a telling 30 minute chronograph dial is exposed at the 3 'o'clock position.  As for a date, ones eyes are drawn to a discrete aperture located at the 6 'o'clock position.
This Gentleman's timekeeper holds the Seal of Geneva and the affluent Chronometer title.

Both timepieces are of unsurpassed quality destined to create a dazzling SIHH 2013 entrance.

GTE 2013 Hublot's Zebra Stripes

Last week I blogged about watch companies and their pets.  My mind is still whirling with animal themes watches so when  spotted the Hublot's Big Bang Zebra Bang, I thought it a wonderful addition to my mental  menagerie of animal themes.  It seems Hublot is sliding down the food chain by unveiling a harmless grazer for its GTE 2013 timepiece. Read more about the Geneva Trade Show which runs from January 21st-25th.   As you recall the previous two animal themed timepieces were the Leopard Bang and Boa bang.  Stylistically Hublot is right on target with this one.
Zebra Stripes are a fashion mainstay  with a history dating back to the late 1800's.  In fact in 1793, a striped clothing frenzy became known as the "zebra period." In the 19th century it was  prisoners who donned the zebra stripes, not out of whim ,of course, but rather a disgruntled obedience. Take a leap to the "now" and one will find zebra stripes accessorizing many a wardrobe. From leggings to handbags to scarves and even commanding an entire outfit whether by night or by day. 

Hublot's Zebra Stripes 41mm ceramic timepiece for the ladies is punctuated with feminine graces. The bezel surrounding the leopard print dial is set with 48 topazes and baguette-cut spinels.

 If you are not familiar with the term Spinal, don't be to disheartened, Spinals are precious gems in themselves - thought to be part of the Corundum family.  The red spinals are often confused with rubies, but in fact are quite different stones. Spinals are found in a variety of colors - the red and cobalt blue spinal.  The purple color spinal owe its hue to iron and chromium.  Spinals require very little treatment as in nature they are flawless and transparent.

 6 signature H shaped titanium screws are embedded, polished and locked upon the bezel. 

Eight bezel set diamonds serve as hour markers and add a glamorous glitter to the dial. A trapezoid date aperture is placed at the 4.30 mark.
The dial is protected by a scratch resistant sapphire crystal  coated on the interior with an anti-reflective treatment.

  A zebra print calfskin strap affixed to a supreme comfort rubber makes for a highly comfortably and flexible strap. Without a doubt the sense of style and fashion afforded by the Hublot Zebra Stripes is impeccable, to say the least, it is the drive beneath its zebra coat which demands a mention.
  The watch is powered by a HUB4300 Automatic Mechanical chronograph movement comprising of 278 components, beating at 28,800 vph, baring 37 jewels and equipped with a 42 hour power reserve.   The efficiency of the automatic winding mechanism is heightened due to  a rare super hard high density chemical element segment known as tungsten affixed to the rotor. (chemical symbol W and atomic number 74). As a result of its high density, tungsten is often as weights and counterweights.
The HUB4300 is equipped with a Glucydur hairspring. The hairspring and balance wheel regulate the entire watch mechanism and thus determining the precision of the timepiece. However the functioning of the  hairspring is highly sensitive to change in temperature thus many higher end  modern watches use an alloy of beryllium, copper, and iron known as Glucydur.  Glucydur (or beryllium bronze) is non-magnetic and is resistant to deformation resulting from temperature change.  In addition it has superior shock resistance than steel.
Companies like Omega prefer a silicon Balance Spring - read A look at Omega's Silicon balance Spring.

This watch is water resistant to 100 meters; however, I am not sure if the strap can take a good swim.


I apologize if my posts are few and far between, but Hurricane Sandy effected by internet connection and it took longer than I thought to get back on track.  However things are returning to normal and posts should be coming on a more regular basis.
Please contact me at rikivanh@gmail.com if you would like me to review a certain watch; link to your webpage, advertise on my site or contact me about writing articles or blogs.  Any other comments or criticism are welcome too. 
Thanks Vicky 

Watch Companies and Their Pets

Boucheron Grenoui

Representation of animals on peoples possessions have been around since the dawn of mankind. From the earliest cave paintings to the latest cyber pets, humans are fixated on animal motifs.
Exquisite depictions of creatures are found on many a watch.  Cartier Prowls around with a Panther; Maurice Lacrox  harbors a starfish and Boucheron has a thing for frogs and feathered friends.  MB & F took a Panda for a ride atop its Thunderbolt HM4 for the Only Watch Auction 2011, while Urwerk lurks in crevices with its Tarantula Timepieces.  Urwerk is not the only one with a fascination for venomous arachnids, the  Ladoire Black Widow  has quite a bite. Concord has let its Black Spider out the cage, while Urwek heeds the call of the Phoenix. Parmigiani summons in a dragon for the Chinese New Year and Cartier captures a croc. Vacheron Constantin lets loose a flock of birds or fish if you wish, while Hermes and Angular Momentum both reign in a herd of horses. Serpents slither across the dial of a Richard Mille RM 026 tourbillon and Piaget's glittering birds perch upon a branch in a Piaget Limelight Garden Party.


Van Cleef & Arpels needs special mention in this regard,  as superb enameling creates creatures of extraordinary splendor. In the 1950's Van Cleef & Arpels wanted to increase its elite customer base and cater to a larger group of admirers.  The result was a lovely catalog named “La Boutique” in 1954 featuring brooches of 'Curious Creatures".  These playful whimsical creatures were somewhat affordable and highly collectible. With the purchase of the Cat Brooch one wanted the lion or the giraffe  ,the adorable bunny brooch or the monocled bulldog. Van Cleef & Arpels used its whimsical representation of creatures to win the hearts of many.

Lady Arpels African Landscape

To this day, Van Cleef & Arpels has been adorning the watch dials with animals of all kinds. Many gracing the face of Van Cleef & Arpels Extraordinary dials. 

Check out my all time favorites.

Lady Arpels African Landscape

Van Cleef & Arpels took great inspiration from the pioneer of science fiction, Jules Verne, and created dial landscapes of incredible wonder based on his tales.  The "Les Voyages" collection and Poetry of Time Collection.  Born and bred on the African soil, I always gravitate towards African themed depictions.
A Van Cleef & Arpel dial is not simply a beautiful image surrounded by a frame.  A Van Cleef & Arpel dial exudes an emotional atmosphere activating a variety of sensory experiences.  The giraffe themed dial creates a vivid sense of the dry hot Savannah sun where rainfall is seasonal and dappled shade is cast from small leaved trees. A bejeweled giraffe protects her offspring against the backdrop of the yellow sand and pale blue sky.  The elephant and his young one resides in a rather more tropical area where rain is abundant and  the sky is often stormy with sudden storms.
It takes rare talent to create dials such as these and each dial undergoes many processes such as  inlaying, stone selection, cutting and setting, lacquering, hand engraving and enameling to create an "Extraordinary Dial."

One of the latest Van Cleef & Arpels Collection is the Extraordinary Dials Hummingbird Collection reminding me always of a Springtime garden tea party. There are quite a few models all beautifully created and full of life.  Three techniques were used in creating these dials: setting of precious stones, champleve enamelling, as well as three-dimensional enameling. One thing I love about these watches is the  830p mechanical movement.  Often times watch companies, especially when it comes to women's watches,  create a wonderful dial of magnificent splendor and then place a quartz movement within the case. However for the Poetry of Time timepieces and Extraordinary Dials, Van Cleef & Arpels goes mechanical.

Another Van Cleef & Arpels dial I simply love is this adorable depiction of mother and baby hippo wallowing in the water.  The intricate alternating shades of watery greens epitomizes the exquisite skill of craft applied to the dial.

From the hot African sun to the frigid Antarctic air - Van Cleef & Arpels utilizes a variety of colors, precious stones, materials and techniques to create the desired look.  The ability to create a still image into a living segment of time, well that's Extraordinary. 

Romain Jerome Celebrates Day of the Dead

DIA DE LOS MUERTOS Romain Jerome watch reveals a strangely "festive" timepiece for the a holiday revered in Mexico "The Day of The Dead"  The busy festive skull plastered on a signature Titanic DNA Romain Jerome case and dial captures the celebratory festivities honoring the departed. The skull is actually a representation of the traditional Mexican decorations known as "calaveras" such as wooden masks or skulls made of sugar associated with this day.  The tradition is of ancient beginnings dating back 3000 years to the Aztecs.  Back then, until the Spaniards came town 500 years ago - give or take, the day was celebrated on the 9th month of the Aztec Solar Calender presided over by goddess Mictecacihuatl or "Lady of the Dead".  She died at birth, but her legacy lives on.
The Spaniards not liking this so called Pagan ritual, but unable to stymy this tradition moved the date to November 1st and 2nd so it coincided with "All Saints Day" and "All Souls Day".

Unlike Halloween which evokes ghouls, ghosts and other ghastly depictions, DIA DE LOS MUERTOS honor the dead in celebration.  Brightly colored skull masks, skull confections and skull puppets decorate the day, much of which is spent at the graveside of loved ones. The graves are often decorated with marigold flowers and candles. Some build alters in their home for offering love and remembrance to the departed.

With so many skull motifs out there - think of Bell & Ross skull watch representing the Second World War Airborne paratroopers (Death From Above) or Corum's obsession with the creepier side of skulls - it is necessary to clearly distinguish the motif of skull representation.  I think Romain Jerome has done an exemplary job in this regard.  The brightly colored skull skillfully hand-crafted in colorful applique with champlevé decoration and cold enameled in seven symbolic colors, is clearly the skull depiction of "DIA DE LOS MUERTOS" or "Day of the Dead".  The seven skull colors signify the seven stages a departed soul must travel before finding eternal peace. The 46mm black PVD coated steel case encases an in-house Caliber RJ001 Mechanical self-winding movement.  Beneath the skull on the  mirror polished dial,  Romain Jerome has placed its signature X shape engraving  extending to the four black ceramic "paws" placed on the black ceramic bezel on either side of the lugs.  Below the 3 'o'clock position resides a polished Romain Jerome logo.  The  blackness of the dial, case and strap serve as an intense backdrop to the striking brightness of the skull. 

Black Satin brushed skeletonized hands are coated with a C1 Superluminova "blue emission" for read out in the dark.  
A "Día de los Muertos" medallion  is engraved on the case back.  The watch is affixed to the wrist with a black hornback alligator strap
Two models, one with a cross and one without, will be available in a limited edition of 25 pieces per model.

The retail price is 15,900 US Dollars