Parmigiani Fleurier Pocket Watch Leda

Perfectly fitting into ones palm, the $950,000 Parmigiana Pocket Watch Leda is a passionate depiction of Leda and the Swan. To understand this one-of-a-kind timepiece, one must surely know this tale from Greek Mythology. Leda, the wife of Tyndareus, King of Sparta was seduced by Zeus,  ruler of the Olympians of Mount Olympus.  He came to Leda in the form of a swan.  The swan fleeing an eagle,  fell out of the sky and into the protective  arms of Leda, where they lay. Two eggs resulting from this union bore two immortal children,  beautiful Helen of Sparta and Polydeuces, as well as the mortal children ,Castor and Clytemnestra, born from the union of Leda and her husband, King of Sparta,on that same night. This striking image of Leda and the Swan intertwined in a passionate embrace  has been reproduced by many great artists and sculptures.   16th century artists like  Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci captured the sensual languidness  of Leda and her Swan many years before depictions of humans in union were permitted.  

Parmigiani Fleuerer is reawakening Greek Mythology by creating exquisite one-of-a-kind timepieces representing tales from the time of the Titans and Olympians. The powerful images evoked by these tales serves as the perfect manifestation of artistic expression.  Thus it is no wonder, Parmigiani Fleurer chose the passionate theme of Leda and Her Swan to grace the surface of the 65mm 18k rose gold unique timepiece. Engraved by hand, Leda and her Swan, lie against the backdrop of majestic Gold Greek Pillars rising in an onyx night sky. Turning the watch over, one seems to take a step back and view Leda and Her Swan within the temple flanked by trees at the edge of a rippling pond filled with water lilies.  The entire scene is reflected in the pond. Above the temple hover a constellation of stars, Gemini, which is said to be the result of Polydeuces' request to Zeus to immortalize he and his twin brother, Castor,  so that they may remain together forever.

The unique number 2028 is engraved on the case back. The dial cover is opened via a push piece combined with a crown set baring genuine sapphire cabochon. The Greek key symbol rings the dial representing  infinity and unity.  This labyrinth type depiction adorned Greek Temples and was the most important symbol in Ancient Greece - a powerful reminder of Greece's formidable presence.  Beyond the "Greek Key" border,  upon the perfect blackness of the onyx dial, the 12 'o'clock position is indicated by the Greek Symbol for twelve  "ιβ" or iota + beta = 10 + 2.  The 8 day power reserve indicator occupies the 3 'o'clock position.  Parmigiani Fleurier oval trademark cartouche marks the 6'o'clock position.  Javelot shaped hands deeply rooted in Greek Mythology pay tribute to the "The Crown Games" or Olympics, where a Javelin was thrown as far as possible in display of strength and precision.

The openings of both covers and movement are in an oval shape representing the eggs from which the children were born.

The hand wound in-house calibre 24''' PF170 movement beats at a frequency of 18,000 vph. 29 jewels accentuate the exquisite two tone rose gilded and Rhodium plated hand engraved bridges inspired by Greek flora. The "Greek Key" - shaped from a continuous line surrounds the movement to form the egg shape.

 The pocket watch is delivered with an 18-carat rose gold pocket chain. 

Micheal Parmigiani, founder of Parmigiani Fleurier (Fleurier being the place of its headquarters)  utilizes his integral knowledge of his restoration of mechanical marvels of the past and adapts them to his current timepieces. Many unknown watch makers whose names have been lost by the passage of time, are being honored by their ideas in Parmigiani incredible timepieces.

Ref: Parmigiani Fleurier - Pocket Watch Leda   

Breitling Chronospace Breitling Jet Team Limited Edition for the Pilot In You

Sale Price at THE WATCHERY $3,650.00 (31% off)

Take to the skies with a Breitling Chronospace Breitling Jet Team, you will be in good company.  After all the Breitling Jet Team, for who this watch is dedicated, is the largest civilian aerobatic team flying on jets. If you are fortunate enough, you may see the Breitling Sponsored jet team barreling across the sky in seven L-39C Albatross airplanes painted in monochrome black and gray,  equipped with white smoke generators. The pilots are ex French Air Force fighter pilots with the exception of the leader and founder Jacques Bothelin - a civilian aerobatic pilot. The Breitling Jet Team home base is Dijon, France.

Just watching the heart stopping jaw dropping antics of the aerobatic team who reach speeds of 700km/h, one can be assured only the best equipment is used to maximize efficiency, endurance and functionality in extreme conditions.  The best equipment includes one of the latest professional instruments - a Breitling Chronospace Jet Team Limited to 1000 pieces.  The timepiece is clear and handsome depicting upon its 48mm stratus silver dial, one of the L-39C Albatross jets as well as the new Breitling Jet Team logo.  The Chronospace timepiece utilizes cutting edge electronics equipped with a full range of functions designed specifically for the needs of elite pilots like the extreme pilots of the Breitling Jet Team.  
These functions include:

• 1/100th of a second chronograph with split times
•  alarm
• dual timezone display with independent alarm
• Coordinated Universal Time (UTC)
• analog and LCD 12/24 hour back lit countdown with a Night Vision Goggles (NVG)-compatible display back lighting system
• Perpetual Calender which accounts for different month lenghths and leap years.
• Battery end of life indicator

The watch is powered by a Breitling Caliber 78 SuperQuartz (thermocompensated quartz) Movement.  The  SuperQuartz provides movements ten times that of a standard quartz, and is one of  the only electronic movement able to meet the requirements of the COSC making the timepiece a certified chronometer.

The durable steel case weighs in at 200grams and has a water resistance of 5 bars/50 meters/165 feet. A bidirectional rotating pinion bezel, which is a slide rule. The slide rule is a mechanical calculator pilots use for dead reckoning as well as converting time, distance, speed, and temperature values, compass errors and calculating fuel use. Although GPS eliminates much need for mechanically calculating this information, most aircrafts are equipped with this device for back up purposes. In addition, flight schools require its students to know how to use the slide rule. The circular slide rule is activated by rotating the star shaped bezel.  There are Km/miles/nautical miles conversion scale on inner bezel.
Scratch Resistant sapphire crystal treated with anti-glare on both sides ensures protection to the dial contributing to the maximum read out ability.
A double case back is specially designed with a resonance chamber allowing for amplification of sound signals up to a level  of 90 decibels.
The exquisite hand woven mesh stainless steel aero bracelet - up to 9 inches - adds a rugged elegance to the timepiece.
This watch is available at the WATCHERY for a limited time only. 

The Rolex Oyster Worlds First Waterproof Watch Put to the Test

Mercedes Gleitze Rolex Oyster

Mercedes Gleitze

In 1926, Rolex unveiled the "Oyster" which claimed to be the first "waterproof" and "dust-proof" watch.  The term "waterproof" has now been replaced by "water resistance", but back in the Roaring Twenties sweeping statements were all the rage.  Rolex had placed the movement in an hermetically (air tight) sealed case providing maximum protection and for further security added a screw-off front and case back and a screw down winding crown making the watch completely water tight.  However, just by saying a watch is waterproof does not vouch for its credibility until tested... and tested it was - around the neck of a typist. A typist who successfully swam across the English Channel in 10 challenging hours.

Her name: Mercedes Gleitze The Date: October 7th, 1927.  When she first broached the subject of swimming the English Channel - an arm of the Atlantic Ocean separating Southern England and Northern France - her friends were quite doubtful to say the least, but Mercedes Gleitze - who was after all an excellent typist- was adamant.  She wasn't successful at first, not for the first seven times that is... and then at 2:55am on a the foggy morning of October 7th, 1927,  Mercedes Gleitze swam stroke by stroke across the English Channel with trainer ,Mr. G. H. Allan, in a row boat alongside her.  

Unfortunately there was not much fanfare surrounding the victorious swim and not as much proof as the public wanted. Mercedes Gleitze was furious, and said if the people wanted proof, the people would get proof.  Thus on October 21st, 2 weeks after her swim of victory, she entered the water again.  What she did not realize, or maybe she did, was that two weeks in October meant two weeks closer to winter, and the water may have cooled down quite a bit.

Rolex Oyster Famous Fish Bowl Add

  The controversy surrounding her swim caught the attention of Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex, who had one of the best publicity ideas in horological history. He would put the "Waterproofness" of the Rolex Oyster to the test around the neck of the much publicized Mercedes Gleitze as she set out to cross the English Channel for the second time in two weeks. On October 21st, at  4:21am,  a large cheering crowd saw Mercedes Gleitze wade into the Channel.  She started off well in water that was a good 6 degrees lower than her victorious swim, smiling and acknowledging her onlookers, but by 1pm exhaustion and hypothermia began to set in.  She wanted to sleep. She begged to sleep.  By 2pm her condition worsened and at 2:45, 7 miles from the English  coastline, she was pulled onto the boat unable to complete her challenge. This could have been a great disappointment for Mercedes Gleitze, but Hans Wilsdorf would have none of that. The Rolex Oyster HAD been successful and maintained its mechanical integrity for ten long hours submerged in water. He had plans for Mercedes Gleitze.  With Hans Wilsdorf's assistance, she became a sports celebrity.

Men's Daytona Paul Newman Special Edition

After all she was the one who tested the Rolex Oyster for over 10 long wet cold hours in the English channel.   Mercedes Gleitze became one of the first athletes to endorse the Rolex brand or any brand for that matter.  She graced Rolex advertisements and thanks to her "engagement by mail " saga spent years in the limelight. Rolex still acknowledges Mercedes Gleitze and her role in the promulgation of the Rolex Oyster. The Rolex Oyster has become a testament of endurance used by athletes and adventurers.

Luxury Timepiece Means More than Ever

So I have the new iPhone 4S, cool! I can now quell my solitude by speaking to a gadget that actually responds ,somewhat, to my gripes. Next year I will tire of speaking to my 4S, and want the iPhone 5, after all this sweet gadget is almost a  full centimeter longer and probably will make a better conversationalist.
Cutting edge technology stokes the hungry desire for more.  We can never be satisfied - since satisfaction leaves us lugging a huge giant phone sporting a gray and white screen with a pull out antenna or worst we may still have "the beeper."  Finding new movies for that sturdy VHS player is downright impossible and our tape cassette is all 80's.  Thus we must keep up, we have no choice. 
In addition, gadgets make an excellent holiday gift your loved one will enjoy for almost a year... if that.
What?  Want a gift that lasts more than a year?  Maybe ten years or even more.  A gift your loved one will cherish for life - something that does not expire or look immensely outdated a year from now. Something your loved one will grow more and more attached to as the years go by and the world moves on.

Well that something is a mechanical luxury watch.

Patek Phillipe Annual Calender

• A mechanical luxury watch works on a system which is centuries old.  A luxury watch is immuned to technological advancements.
• A luxury watch maintains extreme credibility and admiral recognition, especially if it is a Chronometer like a Breitling  or has Geneva Seal like a Vacheron Constantin.
• Batteries never run dry since automatic watches are powered by the simple act of wearing the watch.  The gentle swinging motion of ones hand while walking will prompt the oscillating weight to swing back and forth thereby transforming ones own energy to wind the watch.
• One does not have to rely on an outside source of energy, since a luxury watch has the ability to actually store its own energy.  The more energy the watch is capable of storing depends on the power reserve of the watch.  Some watch have a power reserve of a week and some 48 or 72 hours. Some have separate power reserves for the complications and the time keeping.  A power reserve gauge is usually displayed prominently on the dial.
• Functionally, a luxury watch keeps precision time, and mayhap be a chronograph too.  It may come equipped with a perpetual calender, which accounts for differing lengths of months and leap years too.  Let your grand kids know, since luxury watches are heirlooms, they will need to adjust the perpetual calender in the year 2100.  A Tachymeter scale enables the calculation of the speed of a vehicle.  A minute repeater will sound true and clear  and  wake one up. A sonnerie will chime the hours. A day/night indicator is truly a treasure when the light alludes one and the moon phase complication is an intriguing feature upon the dial. Universal time display keeps one in touch with time zones of great cities far across oceans and dual time zones enables one to keep track of the other important time zone in ones life. In addition, luminescence ensures maximum read out capability in dark dim places. A tourbillon is said to counteract the effects of gravity, and makes for a hypnotizing movement.
• Luxury watches are water resistant to varying degrees, most often to a depth of 100 meters, but more (up to 4000 meters) for diving watches and less (usually 30-50 meters)  for haute joaillerie watches - ever drop your cellphone in water and stare unhappily at a blank white screen. 
• The dial of a luxury watch is protected by scratch resistant sapphire crystal, which is harder than almost any material, besides, of course, diamond.  Rado timepieces are crafted from ceramic, which is a watches fountain of youth.  The watch is virtually timeless and ageless looking new year after year.
• A luxury watch creates an image of success and determination.
• A luxury watch is an investment.  Ever look at the price a Patek Phillipe fetches at a Sothebys  or Antiquorium Auction. No matter how souped up or apped up ones iPhone is, it depreciates at an alarming rate. 
• A luxury watch serves as an accessory to ones wardrobe, dressing up or dressing down depending on the nature of the situation.  A fine bejeweled watch dripping with diamonds marks a slender wrist to bare shoulders to cascading black satin gown. A sports watch, large and colorful,  able to bare the brunt of powerful impacts, marks the real sportsmen. A finely crafted 18k red gold case, lugs and bezel affixed to a powerful wrist marks the one who sits at the head of the table leading and deciding. A gentle elegant yellow gold watch resting on a smooth young arm marks the loved one to a matching slightly larger yellow gold watch joined for eternity.

Thus if you are looking for a gift this holiday season, purchase a luxury watch forever. 

Roger Dubuis Debuts First Watch to Meet New Geneva Seal Requirements

 

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph will meet New Geneva Seal requirements.  Not only will the finishing be scrutinized, but the performance will be analyzed and the "casing-up" and 'watch-head" must adhere to the new requirements (see previous blog). Roger Dubuis Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph has taken the first leap in the uncharted territory of the new era of watchmaking, smoothing the way for other contenders and heightening awareness of the distinction of a Poinçon de Genève.

Let us scrutinize Roger Dubuis Timepiece, granted on a very superficial level, but enough to gain our wide eyed appreciation and vigorous nod of approval. Capturing our immediate attention is the warm hue of the 45mm 18k pink gold case, notched bezel, lugs, crown and hands. The distinctive red chronograph hand points to a chronograph second scale from 0-60 just below the bezel.  A sub-dial at the 3 'o' clock position sports a 45-minute chronograph counter.  Our eyes get drawn to the 9 'o'clock position where a one minute flying tourbillon whirls in calculated frenzy. Tourbillon's are usually supported by a bridge above and below; however, in a flying tourbillon the entire complication is only supported on the bottom - giving it the illusion of "flying" without any support at all.

Pulling our gaze away from the hypnotic magic of the flying tourbillon, our eyes rest on the Poinçon de Genève emblazoned platinum monoblock  micro-rotor at the 6 'o' clock position, which compactly winds the mainspring with the same efficiency as the larger rotor. This micro-rotor powers an in-house caliber RD580 automatic movement.  There after in one quick saccade our fixate on the chronograph pusher which extends from the bezel in elegant opulence.  This one push piece is capable of operating the start, stop and reset functions of the chronograph, rather than the usual two.  A hint of Roman Numerals form beneath sub dials and thanks to our incredible ability of closure, we have no difficulty discerning the numbers. 

Turning the timepiece over, and running our fingers gently across the sapphire crystal case back, we marvel at the impeccable finishing and the Poinçon de Genève on the back end of the micro rotor as well. 

Changes Coming to Hallmark of Geneva for 2012

After 125 years since the legislative body of the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva established the Geneva Seal, the Foundation Council of TIMELAB – Geneva Laboratory of Horology and Microengineering that hosted the certification of the Geneva Seal since 2009-  is about to overhaul the current requirements for obtaining the "Hallmark of Geneva".

For more details on the Seal of Geneva, please link to "What is a Geneva Seal"

The Geneva Seal was established on November 6, 1886 with a mission to uphold the integrity of the watchmaking business - to guarantee the origin, craftsmanship, durability and expertise. The legislative body of the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva saw the Geneva Seal as a crucial step in a watchmaking market of the late 1800's threatened by the multitude of watch forgeries using the name Geneva.  Exactly 125 years later, the Poinçon de Genève, a well established and revered mark of extinction and quality, still defines excellence in movement.  However the time has come for the Poinçon de Genève to define overall excellence as well.
In 2012 the timepiece shall be examined in its entirety. Stringent criteria for the approval of the movement and external components require the submission of 2D drawings; all components of the movement or any additional modules; an assembled movement and/or module and all the external components. This is the first step with which the components  meet the initial criteria for the Poinçon de Genève”. After a manufacturer has successfully obtained approval of the movement and external components, they must submit a complete reference kit of all components of the movement, any additional modules and the external components as well as a  reference movement/module. TIMELAB will then issue an approval report.
Now the Certification Process can begin.  The components are scrutinized and tested to ascertain if the components initially approved in the first phase are identical to this submission.  Intensive inspections are conducted in areas of component inventory, movement assembly and assembled movement inventory.
The criteria for the movements are assessed in a wide range of testing conditions specifically designed to maximize the validity of the assessments.

Assessment investigates factors such as materials - interestingly any watch materials crafted from Polymers are not accepted - here you see where the new requirements are catching up with the technological advancements of the era ;  shaped parts and supplies; strip springs and jumper springs; base plates and plates for additional mechanisms and bridges; jeweling; wheel train; the escapement ; the stud and adjustment index and adjustment system.  After this intensive testing process, the components connecting the movement with the case and dial must adhere to the "Hallmark of Geneva" criteria - better known in horological circles as casing-up.
Additionally, the seal of Geneva must be displayed prominently on one of the components of the movement. It is best if the company includes the serial number as well. The serial number is recorded an entered into a database.
Finally it is time for the inspection of the complete watch, cased-up as the final end product. Factors such as water resistance, accuracy, functional test and power reserve are tested at this stage.
To maintain the reliability of the original testing procedures, the  watch is constantly monitored by the personnel of TIMELAB, who may visit the watch company and the company provides complete access to all production facilities and equipment as well as any data.  TIMELAB may take the "watch-head" at any time back to their lab to perform any other tests.  In addition TIMELAB requires a yearly report of all testing  performed by the watch company, for a period of ten years.
The new certification is available from June 1st, 2012 and all these criteria must be adhered to by June 1st, 2013.

References:
www.timelab.ch/en/17/poincon-de-geneve
Vacheron Constantin November 2011 Newsletter

A Taste of Russia in an Unusual Timepiece

Maxim Nazarov Timepiece - Unique

Supremus — 60.03

Internationally acclaimed watch designer and manufacturer  "Maxim Nazarov" wanted an  intriguing redesign of his Supremus timepiece collection (see left inset), as a unique piece.  Something crazy, something that would stand out among the vast ocean of watches.  He turned to Sergey Volkov, a talented watch designer based in the deeply historic town of Uglich, on the banks of the Volga River. The result is magnificent.  The center of the dial is a vortex of swirling mother-of-pearl partially obscured by a yellow gold decorative plate resembling an oscillating weight.  The decorative plate is the signature mark of a Maxim Nazarov Supremus timepiece; however, Sergey Volkov used his amazing talent and expertise to exquisitely  engrave the plate.

  The enigmatic blue hue of the bezel is actually titanium temperature blued. "Cognac" Diamonds on the lugs serve as an arresting contrast to the titanium case within which beats a ВОСТОК 2416 (Vostok) -

Maxim Nazarov Supremus

Precision 24 mm caliber mechanical movement sporting a central second hand, beating at a frequency of 19,800 vph and capable of a power reserve up to 31 hours.  The movement's bridges and dams are coated with nickel or chrome and the screws are coated with either nickel, gold, cobalt or heat blued. 
The decorative plate serves to divide the 24 hour day into 4 equal 6 hour parts.  Reading the time is quite simple utilizing an original oblong blued skeletonized  hand situated in the center of the watch , consisting of two sides of different length which indicates the time on two semicircular scales. The longer side  points to the outer arc baring the numerals from 9 to 12 and the shorter end points to the inner arc baring the numbers from 12 to 6.

Maxim Nazarov has been displaying his extraordinary timepieces in watch shows around the globe.  Most of his watches are limited edition as a result of the painstaking precision applied to,manufacturing the watch and sometimes the watch is limited to but one - like the Unique Piece crafted by the talented Sergey Volkov.