An In Depth Look at Richard Mille

RM 028

Richard Mille went to great depths to bring us the latest Diver's Watch, the RM 028 (as seen above.) But wait a minute, this watch is round, a far cry from Richard Mille's signature elongated watch cases, as round as a submarine's porthole. Round, round, round,round! However, the roundness of the watch is by no means to enter the realms of ordinary, but to increase the watches integrity as a diver's watch; to maximise the water resistancy of up to 300 meters. Any other shape may jeopardize the efficiency of the water resistance.

Richard Mille unveiled its first diver's watch, the RM 025 Tourbillon Chronograph, back in January 2009. I am not sure what good a tourbillon may do under water, but it makes for a nice additional complication. The RM 025 is something to behold at 50.7mm in diameter and comprised of a clever composite of 18ct red or white gold and titanium case with luminous markers for exploring underground watery caves (if you wish). The complex inner workings are clearly visible, including all the screws, which, in itself, is an incredible technological breakthrough based on its 300 meter water resistancy. The chronograph has a column wheel of titanium, and the entire movement is based on the RM 008 carbon nanofibre calibre.

The new RM 028 is slightly smaller with a diameter of 47mm and boasts a skeletonized automatic movement utilizing a rotor. As always Richard Mille adds a unique touch to its watches. In the RM028 the level of automatic winding can be adjusted, via the setting of two 18ct white gold wings, to the users preference based on his habits. Richard Mille has created a new depth in diving watches. It is always a pleasurable surprise to see what Richard Mille comes up with next.

The Mind Bending Cabestan Winch Tourbillon Vertical

Perception of a time piece of this nature pulls one from the realms of common timekeeping. This grand specimen is nothing short of absolute mechanical brilliance. Jean-Francois Ruchonnet, a unique watch engineer, reinvented timekeeping creating vertical movement driven by a fusee and chain. The chain looks very much like that on a bicycle, but Mr. Ruchonnet drew his inspiration from a yacht. A yacht which incorporates a vertical winch system, moved by a crank. The force produced from the winch system is such that it has the power to hoist and adjust a sail or to raise the anchor.

The Cabestan Winch Tourbillon Vertical began as an idea which became reality back in 2007 thanks to Jean-Francois Ruchonnet and watchmaker, Vianney Halter. The first prototype was greeted with much enthusiasm and fanfare as well as a couple raised eyebrows. A watch like no other, no dial and no hour markers. Instead the hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve are displayed on four rotating aluminium drums, mounted on ball-bearings, at the four corners of the movement. Quite remarkable; however, incredibly a tourbillon is included next to the seconds drum. A Tourbillon was invented in 1795 by Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet, to counter the effect gravity had on the movement of the watch. The actual premise regarding the effect of the Tourbillon is questionable; however, the tourbillon is becoming increasingly popular due to its mesmerizing beauty. The Tourbillon is a mechanism mastered by only the best watchmakers, and to incorporate a Tourbillon into the Cabestan Winch, is to achieve the impossible.

My favorite aspect of this watch is the Cabestan chain. The hand made chain comprises of 450 steel links and 150 rivets which provides constant torque to the movement. The chain is driven by the barrel and winds around fifth drum thus vertically crossing the entire mechanism. It takes 40 hours of labor to complete just one chain. The watch is wound and time is set via a tiny cranks much like the one found on a yacht. The crank locks onto a capstan to connect with the fusee to wind the watch and another capstan connects to the hour and minute drums. When not in use the crank fits into the folding buckle The watch boasts a 72 hour power reserve. The time set crank. The entire watch movement is protected by two thermo-formed Pyrex crystals.

Romaine Jerome was captivated by the Cebeston Winch Tourbillon and in 2008 incorporated the movement in a set of six "The Romaine Jerome Cabestan Titanic DNA Tourbillon watch" combining innovative haute horlogerie and artistic design. The Romain Jerome Cabestan Titanic DNA Tourbillon watch's case is contains actual oxidized material obtained from the Titanic shipwreck, fused to steel obtained from the Harland & Wolff shipyards, the area where the Titanic was built in the early 20th century.
The Cabestan 2 is already in the works. It is at the 3D conceptualisation stage, crucial to watch development. The Cabestan 2 ,with a chronograph, will utilize a hydraulic column wheel. The pushers will force liquid through pipes that run across bridges and thus under pressure will trigger the chronograph command. As if one tourbillon is not enough, the newer model will boast two vertical tourbillons. Unfortunately you will have to have a little patience to see the actual timepiece; the Cabestan 2 is scheduled for release in 2012.
By R. Van Halem

The Oldest Valid Trademark in the International Registary at WIPO celebrates 120th Anniversary

Beneath the 12 'o'clock position of this fine watch crafted by Longines, a winged hourglass logo is visible. Longines logo holds as much profundity as the company itself. The Longines winged hourglass logo is the oldest valid trademark in the International Registary at WIPO (World Intellectual Property Organization). An organization created by the United Nations in 1967 "to encourage creative activity, to promote the protection of intellectual property throughout the world" as stated at a convention to establish its existence.

The WIPO is headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland, an horological hotbed.

The iconic winged hourglass was originally registered in 1889 in Switzerland followed by a filing under the Madrid Agreement Concerning the International Registration of Marks in 1893. In 1893, the Madrid Agreement included only six member States: Switzerland, Belgium, France, the Netherlands, Portugal and Spain. Longines was the 14th application filed in the Registery, but it is the only mark still in use today as opposed to the 13 other marks which have lapsed in years past.

In 1867, in Les Longines, Mr. Ernest Francillon consolidated his families watch making skills under one roof. He renamed his company, Longines, a name now associated with the finest in Aviatiors Watches. The most iconic of which was designed by the legendary Charles Lindbergh immediately after his transatlantic flight.

On May 20, 1927 at 7:52 a.m., Lindbergh took off from Roosevelt Field on Long Island for Paris. 33 1/2 hours later, (10:22 p.m. French time) Lindbergh set the Spirit of St. Louis down at Le Bourget Field near Paris. He had flown 3,600 miles and became the first to fly solo non-stop across the Atlantic. He became an instant celebrity, and to this day he is an icon in aviation. It seems that while he was on his long voyage, he gave much thought to a watch that would be ideal for a pilot. He returned to the US and immediately began to draw up plans for a special pilot’s watch. Linbergh turned to Longines to create a perfect and practical pilot's instrumental watch. Longines watchmakers immediately went to work . A few months later the first prototype was presented to Lindbergh. He was extremely satisfied with the result.

Longines winged hourglass is engraved on all its pieces, the original version on the case back and the updated version on the dial. Longines is a company geared to innovation with over 160 patents for new watch movements and technical innovations in Switzerland.

Longines can boast a long list of firsts; Longines was the first to drop the winding key and invent the integrated crown mechanism for winding and setting the time. This new invention was presented at the 1867 Universal Exhibition in Paris where it received a bronze medal for invention.

In 1905, Longines was the first to produce a wristwatch mechanically. In 1979 the Longines "Feuille d'Or" model became the world's thinnest watch, at 1.98 mm powered by a quartz movement wholly integrated within the slim case. In 1984, Longines made a breakthrough by unveiling a timepiece with a VHP or Very High Precision Movement - a system of thermo compensation which proved to be five to ten times more accurate than quartz.

Longines also made waves in its new and innovative watch designs. In the Art Deco period of the 1920's and 30's, Longines crafted its watches utilizing organic form and structural geometry.

In commemoration of the 120th anniversary of the original registration Longines has unveiled a themed exhibition at the Cité du Temps in Geneva and published a study about the logo, as well as creating two limited series of numbered watches, each of 120 pieces.

The Ulysse Nardin Monaco YS Maxi Marine Diver

The latest creation from Ulysse Nardin brings to mind waves crashing against the immense looming hull of a pirate's ship. Tattered sails whip around in screaming winds as sea farers grip the mast. Ulysse Nardin is a Company with deep ties to the ocean.

This particular model was crafted with Prince Albert of Monaco ,an avid environmentalist, in mind. Prince Albert latest mission is to protect the Mediterranean Bluefin Tuna from overfishing by getting it added to the Endangered Species List.

The watch is essentially a redressed Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver Watch 

However the Monaco YS is fiercely black crafted from DLC or Diamond Like Carbon. A coating of DLC can dramatically increase the lifetime of the underlying steel. A dusty rose gold ring surrounds the sub dial below the hands, reminiscent of a life ring thrust out to sea into the flailing arms of the man overboard. Within the ring "Monaco" is branded in a fiery red.

The hands are dipped in gray colored lume which glow in dark adverse conditions. The watch is powered by a UN Caliber 26 automatic Chronometer.

Only 100 pieces of the Ulysse Nardin Monaco YS Marine Diver will be available for purchase.

A 31 Day Power Reserve.

Is there a luxury watch with a 31 day power reserve? Seeing is believing my friend. Yes there is most certainly a watch with a 31 Day Power Reserve. The A. Lange & Songe Lange 31 watch. To even contemplate such a feat seems only the stuff dreams are made of, but A. Lange & Songe has pushed the limits of watchmaking craftsmanship.
A. Lange & Songe is well known for its precision, and precision was the top priority when crafting this watch. The 744 hours power reserve, as apposed to the usual 45 hours or IWC's 168 hours, is split between two mainspring barrels, thus the power moving through the slowly unwinding springs needs to be perfectly consistent. Too slow would mean minutes loss and too fast would mean minutes gained, disastrous for any watch manufacturer.
The exceptional L034.1 movement achieves a constant force by utilizing a constant force escapement which regulates the torque from the mainspring as it powers the watch. To achieve this perfection, A. Lange & Sohne, spent years testing the finished movement to ensure its reliability over a long period of time.
The Lange 31 watch is delivered with a winding key, which must only be wound once a month. The impressive 31 day power reserve meter is displayed in grand opulence on the watch face. The Lange 31 is available in the rose gold face as depicted above, and in platinum which was released earlier.
This piece has truly impressed the horological community, as this watch embodies perfection. Perfection not from pot luck, but from a unrelenting dedication where less than perfect is out of the question. The years of energy, persistent engagement and ecxeptional expertise utilized to a craft a masterpiece such as this comes with a price. A price above $300,000.

Tag Heuer Monaco V4 Revs the Engines on New Winding Technology

The wait is almost over. The Tag Heuer Monaco V4 debuts in November marking the 150-year anniversary of TAG Heuer, and will and will be produced in a symbolic limited edition of just 150 pieces. But not all will be available at once, seventy-five pieces of the Monaco V4 will be delivered in November 2009, and the remaining seventy-five will be released the in June 2010. Tag Heuer's Monaco V4 was first introduced as a concept watch with no mention of when or if it would become available, but at last, it has made a debut. The Tag Heuer Monaco V4 is priced at $80,000 a piece, the first of which will be auctioned off for charity.

This platinum beauty has an ingenious concept in timekeeping, in fact it is completely reinventing the mechanical movement principle. Getting inspiration from car engines, Tag Heuer replaces the rotating oscillating weight for automatic winding with a platinum ingot, weighing just 4.25 grams which acts as a cylinder of sorts, in a linear movement. This linear movement then transforms power, not to a set of wheels, but to a drive-belt transmission. 13 belts in all with a gauge measure of 0.5 x 0.45mm. Traditional Mechanical Watches utilize rubies to reduce friction, the Tag Heuer V4 uses 2.2 mm diameter bearings with 0.25mm balls rotating inside. In other words the traditional pinions and gear systems have been replaced with belts, and the rubies with ball races. The idea is one of a kind as it combines a unique transmission chain made of belts with a linear ingot to rewind the barrels. The truly amazing thing about this watch is its four barrels and bridges of sapphire that act as energy generators.
The presentation of this watch is the result of months and months of research and craftsmanship. The result is a seriously cool watch with a cool design which will definitely make waves in the horological community.

Colorful New Watch Brands for Happy Sports by Chopard

Chopard Happy Sports has unveiled 11 new watch band colors. Chopard Happy Sports is a hugely popular timepiece first introduced in 1993. The Happy Sport Collection is a spin off from Chopard's Happy Collection, unveiled in 1976 which contains riveting designs and colors. Founded in 1860 by Louis-Ulysse Chopard in Sonvilier in the Swiss Jura, Chopard gained the respect of an outstanding watch company. In the 19th century, a precise timekeeper was held in high regard. Chopard became quickly known for its precision so much so that it became the supplier for the Swiss railway.

The Chopard Happy Collection is immediately recognizable by exquisitely cut gems free floating between two sheets of Sapphire crystal above the watch face.

The Chopard Happy Collection fuses Sporty watches with Diamonds and other gems creating an elegant everyday timepiece